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I was always told the twin 450’s for milder street applications. I’ve road in. 440 Charger with twin tunnel ram 450. I thought it was pretty darn good. Likewise, twin 750’s for racing, unless it’s a super beast. Back then, a good 30 years ago, I couldn’t understand how a regular 440 could be...

On cranks, just read what the material is made of. The MP cranks were often 5130 I think it is which is fine for most applications. The very hi performance ones are 4340. Oddly, at least in my head, my 3.545 MP crank designed to make a 352 w/a 4.03 bore size is a 5130. (If those are the correct...

Back up to 6 La. Down to 2 W2&5’s. Had over 14 at one point. Love to swap out and tinker just to see exactly how they perform for a real world comparisons first hand knowledge and not some internet hero’s B.S. theory or what there side ruler tells them to calculate mathematically. I read so...

The intake can be ported but it now becomes, “Is the juice worth the squeeze?” It would be of a small benefit. Swapping out the cam would make it more effective as well as porting the heads. Overall, it’s a pricey expenditure for a mild return. On a stock engine, besides headers, the cheapest...

FWIW, Summit has offering from Mellings. It may not be a dead ringer though.

Sorry, forgetting and/or late to the party updates….. What size springs and retainers are being used?

Is that fuel pump a stock one?

The longer I’m alive, the more I realize the less I actually know. Crap! Did I just quote my Mom from 45 years ago?

Sounds like the standard 3 tubes under the drivers side steering linkage header that looks like everyone else’s entry level inexpensive header. Passenger side header is longer as installed under the car. This would be the design, you are correct.

A lawn mower has a good spark energy to it. An old landlord of mine was trying to start his mower up. He’s pulling and pulling away like mad getting angry. I walk out the door and ask if I can help. So, I just went through the basics of an engine needs of air, fuel and spark. He had gas, we are...

Yep! My Duster was running weird. I had to keep on the gas pedal nearly all the time just a bit to keep it running. A progressively worsening problem. So on a lightly rainy day, I finally pull over, leave the car running and open up the hood hoping to see a red neon sign saying, I’m the issue...

Yeaaaaa, that about sums it up. The 318 of this thread will do well with just a small cam, 4bbl. & headers. A little gear helps, but not realllllly needed. Nor extra converter stall. I’d install a cam of 218@050 and call it good, run high 13’s with 3.55’s. Yep! Done that. It was good. I also did...

Typical for the 318 hater who thinks his **** is the best and only way to build a streetee engine. After all being 71 means you know everything.

Normally I’d razz ya a bit here calling you a 318 hater, but yea, with an inexpensive 5.9, instead, miles ahead. First intelligent thing you said in months.

Thanks Kim. I couldn’t read it without my glasses, I thought those were the numbers. A decent ported 318 head can wake those tenets up really good. Charlie Servedio got some really good numbers out of a ported set. If the OP can get those, that would be a really good help in selling these.

An OEM 340-4bbl cam, nice. A bit smaller than the requested size, but really nice for a resto project. That comp has what I’d say, IMO of course, probably the best street muscle cam type of specs for a nice power increase and drivability. I have the roller version with 1.6 rockers. Jumping in...

318 or 340/360 heads?

Oh, the sound is the mufflers job. The camshaft will produce the rhythm.

Show me the specs on it

Investigate “Helm Hurtz” pipes.

OP, This ^^^^^^^ Though AJ makes an excellent point. If your engine was a 10-1 - 10.5-1 ratio, the cam in a 110 would be it. The problem is your low compression and stock tiny valve cylinder heads. This is going to kill it and in combination with the cam sizes you listed, your low end torque...

I don’t know if you’ll pick up the magic 25hp. The heads have a nice improvement for sure.

PM sent

Having to short of a header tube will rob low end torque. While many will use it because of ground clearance, they are missing low end torque. Longer header tubes make more torque. Short one are more focused on high rpm power production. In all honesty, I’ll make the purchase of the long tube...

The header pipe diameter should be sized to the amount of exhaust the port can pump out. A next size in diameter normally doesn’t hurt though you could, combo dependent, loose a little bottom end torque. The length of header pipe will broaden or shorten low end torque. The shorter the head...

The Wheels and tires forum is here on FABO.

A very smart man has purchased the TQ. AVS still for sale

He hasn’t been around since 12/22.

On re reading this…. While the inner fenders are indeed a structural part, frame rail bracing isn’t needed. If you’re building a very high powered car, then bracing everywhere should be done. It’s not needed for a street hot rod. The amount of missing material is not that large.

Have you posted up in the wheels and tires forum under what tires your running so everyone knows what can fit? Also, what wheel and offset and tire brand are you running? Those are power losers though ground clearance is huge.