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Yeah, I did say on the factory front end .............. and I don't see OP setting up his "cruiser" like yours. However; I applaud you for making it work, cuz; I made it work on the factory 68 to 72 front end, with the KH 4pots, at 4.25 bs; and I know how much work that was.

I got a couple. can also supply a reconditioned cone-type SG, and/or, I might have a spool somewhere. Oh and 4.88 gears, lol. Various yokes, not many left.

Yur gonna need an Oxy-acetylene rig, an air chisel (with a generously-sized compressor), and a press with various adapters, and probably a big vise.. If you're a newbe on the torch, I recommend you have new pins on hand. If you farm the work out, then after you get it back; you have no way of...

As for the coolant level; you got two choices; 1) Put an expansion tank on it, with a recirculating cap. Your problem will be history. Mine is from a 73 Dart. It wasn't a bolt-in, but almost. Then you can fill the rad to the top. or 2) you could do what we used to do in the old days; just run...

On a different set-up; I took mine to a wheel-shop. He lathed the spiders out, narrowed the hoops then welded the spiders back in where I wanted them. Quick and easy, and wasn't that much money. but I had to repaint them.

I have a pair of 15x 8" Rallys, (WV) but they will only fit on the back because, IIRC, the backspace is ~4.25.

It'll fly

While it may not look great, the pin is exactly in the right location, and even centered in the bushing! On a budget, I would leave it, mostly cuz having replaced several of them, I know what a PITA it is. However, Do not tighten the pin until/unless the front suspension is close to it's final...

...bikes pulled over, in what shade they could find. I remember seeing a rather king-sized thermometer set-up for all to see. IIRC it was showing 101*F; or maybe 104, one or the other. Me and a buddy had these Suzuki waterbuffalo's, on which the gauges never moved after the bikes were up to...

and here I am stuck inside on account of it won't quit raining, with an outdoor temp running from 16*C to 24 tops. In Fahrenheit, that is from 60 to 75 .................. So far this year, the hottest we have hit was IIRC, 82*F, and just one time, between thunderstorms, that blow up here from...

Here's what I did to reclaim 30 plus years old frozen cables. I took the cables off the car, chucked the sheath of one end in a vise. On the cable ends, I installed visegrips. Then I tried working it, by pulling the cable back and fourth. Since my cables were seized, I Repositioned the cable...

I have used Mopar starter relays to good effect. They don't look hi-tech, but they get the job done ...... for decades.

On the factory front end, 3.75 bs is about all you can use, before the wheels get into the upper bjs with 15s....... and/or the rubber gets into either the strutrods, the frame-rails or the fenders. BUT IMO, almost worse is that as the center of the wheel moves outboard of the design...

As to handling for a streeter; I'm happy with 235/60-14s on 7.5 alloy wheels. I was real happy with 245/50-15s on 8s, but the rubber was so soft, it only lasted a couple of weeks. Cornered pretty good tho......

Check the alternator for AC output into the battery. If you find such, then one or more of the diodes is bad. Fix that first. Then if the symptoms persist and it is a points type ignition; change the condenser.

Or how about; For Sale; 67 Barracuda, and then when you call it up, it says headlights, or some other stupid thing.

You had HD bushings. You're Going to standard duty. If your HD springs are sagged out, I would just get them re-arched and maybe add an extra main leaf from eye to eye. That worked for me over 40 years ago.

The 3.09x 3.55=10.97 is a great starter gear for a small-block. I ran that combo for several years. And in od, that .73x3.55= 2.59 final drive, was excellent.

Thanks man, I did not know that.

Hang on fella; 413 said 65 and newer AND ALL SURE-GRIPS, use the 1.5 T-bloc. So all you need to do, is swap into the old open diff, is a later bloc, or just install a second Sure-grip. Or do what I did, just weld a pair of hardened washers onto your skinny block until it gets close enough to...

are those sleeves?

...with burning gasses. This is of course, very bad; cuz if the primary pipe ends up under pressure, when the exhaust valve next opens, and you have 61* of overlap, guess what; those higher pressure than what is in the intake plenum, are headed up to the plenum. This is theory. Does it happen in...

No it's not bad. This part of the differential only moves when the car is turning. The rest of the time it is rotating at the same speed as the axles. Gear-oil is sufficient to more or less prevent wear. In fact, the Thrust Block has more surface area than the Thrust Buttons do, by a bunch.

No; the T-block cannot turn, and the shiny ends are made to be working surfaces. I have never seen a worn-out one. The clutch type has 4 pinions on two crosspins that interlock in the center. This kind has buttons as there is no way that I can see for it to work otherwise. This system allows...

In post 16 It appears to me, that you are looking at the captured Thrust-block This block is NOT found on a clutch-type Limited Slip. It is found in all cone-type Mopar 8.75 Sure Grips. It is captive on the Crosspin and cannot be lost. But you can take it out and machine the ends off for...

On a racecar, do whatever you want, I got no advice. But ON THE STREET there is no good reason to run 11x3" brakes on the back, cuz yur gonna have to proportion them down severely, to work on an A-body, to prevent a spin on a panic stop. Even with 295s on the back, and 10x2s, I had to play with...

...DP/no spacers. She is getting fresh cold air from above the hood, and She runs TTI headers with full-length 3" duals. And, I run it at 207*F. > IMO, she runs, perfectly at all throttle/load settings with no flat-spots and no hesitations of any kind. > until recently, the plugs were new...

With plastic tanks it doesn't take much effort to make them leak. If the core-support was hit hard enough to make it diamond shaped, you can bet the plastic will leak, sooner or later. If your cooling system is operating properly, the ambient temp will not affect it. If the pressure in the...

That only works if the induction system is able to simultaneously pass more air. And a big part of the increase is the larger Swept volume which increases the SCR. What I mean is this, you can put a 5" piston on your pushmower, but good luck even starting it with that lil rope starter.. lol

I have everything you need for a 4-speed conversion, except the floor-hump and a reverse switch. Including 3 or more transmissions to chose from. Currently they are on the back-burner for assembly, with many new parts. I could also rustle up an 8.75 with gears from 2.76 to 3.23, or even a...