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I've probably posted this but I spent YEARS, actually DECADES, "leapfrogging" two come-a-longs. They come with slip hooks which are useless. I replace those with grab hooks, and try to convert them so I can "select" whether double or single line. When loading on the trailer, or...

Those can be a mess. I recommend you spend the time to pull that section out and inspect it. Work? You bet. Remember, these originally were installed or replaced with NO cutting. You may not need to pull it ALL out. Pull some out and if you see the "melt" becoming less, try to identify...

It should not if the wiring is up to it but this IS a source of voltage drop because of the bulkhead connector, quite often. I am running out of ideas. I really have to lean towards finding a local guy who can take a fresh pair of eyes at the problem. The same idea is true in "run" and I...

The simple answer is that if you pull the INST fuse and the lamps stay on, there is a cross in the harness somewhere, OR someone has tried to add something to the ORANGE dash lighting and is backfeeding power into them. Look around your added gauges, tach, etc.

THIS. The relay gets power for the relay and horn from the alternator, "big stud," there are short wires which jumper essentially from the relay to the horn(s) and then the horn button wire runs along with the alternator wiring, back to the bulkhead connector.

Some of the isolated field alternators draw more field current than the original pre-70. Those resistors are gonna run hot, tho The other BIG BIG BIG problem is that it is UNLIKELY that any replacement or rebuilt alternator actually meets the same specs that the OEM did

Either !!!! There is some tremendous load somewhere during crank that is causing a massive voltage drop OR there is a bad connection in the brown / bypass circuit or bad ignition switch You should be able to run this down quickly. With everything normalized, measure the power at the...

That is not a resistor, that's a spike diode, to protect whatever is driving the relay, AKA EFI module. You MUST be sure you get that polarity right. Many relays have them built in, and the "internet wisdom" claims that SOME are backwards. Isn't that a bummer. The band is the cathode...

If both lamps ARE bad, you may have an overvoltage charging problem

At this point you are either down to a ground issue or the headlights are bad. To check that, pull out either lamp a little so you can access the connector, with the headlamp still connected. With the HL switch on, clip your meter ground to the battery neg. to start with and probe...

Temp varies a LOT up here in the N. end of Idaho/ Spokane WA area. They talk about global warming, HOWEVER I distinctly remember the summer of 67--last summer I was home before I joined the Navy. Hot and dry all summer. I had my 57 Chev apart, and rod a Honda 50/55 "step through" all...

All I did was power it up and play with it on a test bench. It seems OK, but I have not run it any length of time.

^^This here, I will repeat. The MAIN ground from the battery neg should from the batt to the BLOCK. Anything else grounding the body should from (ideal) batt to body or block to body

You must not be feelin well!!! LOL

Don't forget, Mattox the high charge problem could be right at the alternator---the infamous wrongly configured field connections Anyhow the lights...........Only thing I can think of is that you overheated the harness with the charge problem, and it internally melted some wiring and...

OP I think you are cruizin for a bruizin here on this. I think you should grit your teeth and heave that thing. You know why people like Pitts and 4spd say stuff like they did? Because when we were young, WAY back in the SEVENTIES, we bought cheap junk aftermarket CHROME ALLOY...

Sounds to me like you found it. The battery ground cable should go direct from the battery to BLOCK. But some vehicles are a "trick." One of my old Rangers did this very thing, and that ground cable went down with a "T tap" fitting inline in the cable to ground at the frame, then...

Try this. monitor coil + to ground. Turn key to run, and then disconnect the alternator field. Note voltage rise. Then reconnect, and disconnect the push on terminal at the voltage regulator. Should be same effect Now move your meter to the opposite end of the ballast resistor...

"Spade that I ground to alternator body: 5.9 ohms" No understand LOL. You ungrounded it? Is anything connected to the opposite field connector? " Alternator field with alternator ungrounded at other spade: 3.3 ohms" You are going field to field? This is about right. The fields vary...

I have not looked. Is it practical in the timing cover?

I would check it out. Wiggle the TS switch, shake and wiggle the lamps in their sockets, etc, and actuate everything several times. By the way a jerry rigged mirror on some sort of stand can be very helpful so you can see the lights from the driver's area

I get your point but.............. You are assuming. For all we know both dash lamps are burned out. It is easier to troubleshoot the major problem and then worry about the small stuff Since the dash lamps are/ can be difficult to access, fix the signals and then.......

Well you need to do some actual TESTING, not guessing. FIRST if you do not have such, wander over to MyMopar.com and download both volumes of the 73 service manual, and while there, go to the wiring section at MyMopar and download the simplified aftermarket diagrams, which can be easier...

You can easily test for it. If you can not prove it is not happening, do one of what I posted in the bottom of post 25. The simple answer is this: Either your newer car has an isolated bypass contact or not. (the old IGN2) If not, then backfeed is gonna be a problem. If that is so...

Make certain the front sockets are actually grounding. If necessary, solder pigtails to the socket shells and run over to the body and a screw, etc

Actually I should have qualified. Most of us here do not do that bypass as shown. Rather, I usually mention it is a good overview to the what happens and why Simply, bypass the ammeter by fastening the ammeter wires together or fix it by soldering the studs to the shunt and make...

Then I would concentrate on the IGN2 bypass circuit. Once again did you hook your meter to coil + and crank engine, what do you get for voltage when cranking? Using an ohmeter to troubleshoot in this way GENERALLY is poor practice, WHY? Because if you DO have a poor connection...

I would pull that alternator off where you can SEE it and do some checking. Maybe the so called insulated terminal is not. Maybe the insulator is broke, or it is (should not be) grounded, or maybe the field windings are shorted/ partially shorted. It may be that voltage drop in some...

They are as accurate as your ohmeter. I actually have a gauge tester built for "all makes," is nothing more than two pots, a hi and a lo range--in one box. They have a scale, but I set them with a Fluke

WHAT GOES IN (and out) of a TS switch IN: 1...Switched brake light power. This is "hot" to the switch at all times, so anytime you press on the brake, the (usually white) wire from the brake switch to the TS switch should come alive. With the switch centered, the TS switch routes...