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No thats the one at voltage regulator. This is the one I moved around

I would think when Ign 2 gets power at ballast resister that some voltage flows through ballast to Ign 1 voltage regulator terminal and then to alternator field circuit during Start? Would that reduce volts to coil?

The brown wire inside car under dash at bulk head, in eng comp at bulk head, and at coil those voltage numbers match. I have not seen a voltage drop through that circuit at least from under dash bulk head to coil. That was the very first test I did, where I started. I also ran jumper wire...

Two week old voltage regulator resisters have burned appearance? With voltage regulator connected to Ign 1 and field wire disconnected car will start. Field wire connected and field wire now at zero ohms after wiggling alternator terminal end car won't start.

I measured 6 ohms between voltage regulator and alternator field terminals. So released tab and pulled terminal out of plastic housing at alternator end, moved terminal around, saw 5-10 ohms as I moved terminal around then settled at zero ohms and stays there as I move terminal end around...

To wire unilite to Ign 1 I used a new Packard 56 female terminal at ballast resistor where Ign 1 and power to unilite in same terminal.

This was the voltage regulator that had been on there for 20 years that died 3 weeks back and was replaced by the mechanical one from Napa: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-voltage-regulator-raa1052/12450617-P?selectedStore=2623 The local parts store says they can have one...

Yeah it all worked great for two weeks, car would start so fast you did not even hear starter, car had never ran as good during that two weeks, then without warning no start issues arose when getting gas. I will measure voltage to Unilite during start see what I get. And double check its...

The one test where I got 12.3 volts at coil the wire was disconnected from coil during that test. The one thing I have not done yet is measure voltage to Unilite during cranking. Also note worthy is Unilite gets power from Ign 2 through ballast resistor when cranking. I tried moving Unilite...

I added my Unilite wiring to the diagram you posted up. That distributor was installed around 2008, worked flawless until 3 weeks back at which time the module went into a slow death mode where engine stumbled/missed like a low fuel supply issue, ran fine when cold, would die when engine warmed...

If I unground neutral safety switch so starter won't run, disconnect Ignition 1 from ballast resistor, then put key in start position I measure 12.3 volts vs the battery 12.5 volts. Ballast is .8 ohms and I have another that is 1.2 ohms same behavior with both ballast resistors.

:lol:Yeah and plug it back in after car starts. See we have the work around all is good....

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR32

Post #19 above has the voltage tests.

Took new alternator off. 6 ohms spade to spade. Each spade is open circuit to alternator housing. Swapped old alternator back on no difference. Old alternator is a known working unit. Bought new battery at rest 12.5 volts. During crank 11 volts. Car starts if I unplug Ignition 1 from...

Watching too much Barrett Jackson classic cars are gold mines reasonable offers are dead on arrival.

Voltage readings: Battery at rest - 12.5 volts (battery is 7 years old) Battery when cranking - 10.5 volts Voltage at + side of coil when cranking: 8.5 volts (does not start) Battery to + side of coil voltage drop from battery when cranking: 1.8 volts (does not start) Battery to + side of coil...

Yep I agree with ALL of the above....

Looks like battery is 7 years old. And car was apart for a year for full floor replacement recently and I don't think I took best care of battery during that time....

Pictures

I have ohm'ed the Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 circuits from ignition key plug to coil. They were zero ohms. Positive battery cable to ignition key bat terminal zero ohms. Alternator to starter relay post zero ohms. New ignition switch tested before install: zero ohms when key in run and start...

Any thoughts on why car fires if I unground spade connector on alternator? Weak battery maybe?

Thanks. I have to check cranking voltage. It sounds like starter can spin the engine very fast. I see 12.5 volts at battery car off and around 14 volts when its running. Car can sit for days and starter still seems like spins engine fast. But let me check battery voltage when cranking.

I ran alternator with one spade grounded other hooked to field voltage regulator, reversed grounded other spade and hooked one that was grounded to field wire. This was done when everything was working two weeks back. So it looked to me that neither spade was grounded based on those tests.

1969 Barracuda All wiring is factory specs New alternator and voltage regulator worked for two weeks then developed a no start issue. Coil gets 8 volts when cranking. If I disconnect ground on spade connector on two week old alternator car gets full voltage at coil and fires immediately. I...

The alternator is a 1970 style with two spade field connectors. So I grounded one spade to housing of alternator. Voltage regulator is an original '69 style points type replacement part. Voltage regulator housing has zero ohms to negative side of battery.

I put new alternator and voltage regulator on car about two weeks back. Everything worked great. Then last Friday stop to get gas on way to car show and car would crank but no start. I found if I let go of key real fast let it snap back into Run position I could get lucky and car would start...

I had to put key back in Run position when pushing lock cylinder into new switch housing. That way the little button was able to easily push into the lock cylinder. Once key out of Run position that little button won't push in. But once I figured it out was real easy to do.

Pulled my 1969 ignition switch out. To remove lock cylinder I put key in run position then took screw driver pushed little button in through hole in housing. Then cylinder pulled out.

I don't see no hole in the front of mines? Are those instructions applicable to a '69?