Search results for query: *

Looks to me like it's time to pull the dist and inspect the drive gear. If that is OK time to evaluate the cam timing Any idea of the miles on the engine or work that has been done?

LOL you are doin a LOT better than some of the rest of us

THIS is why we cannot have nice things..............

Bad. Hope he has good insurance

Have you DONE anything to it immediately previous? EG the dist looks might clean is it new? Did you change the timing? If you have not moved the timing I would attempt to check it. Sometimes you can pull the coil wire and leave it "lying" near the top tower so it has to jump...

I would do further digging. You are doing what, finishing up a new harness? Are you aware of the ammeter wires? Big black and big red under the dash, they go to the ammeter and the black is NOT ground, it continues to the alternator. If you do not have an ammeter they must be bolted...

You pretty much must have a check valve. If you are into the throttle, the engine vacuum drops, and if you need to grab the brakes before the engine can recover and generate vacuum, you will be faced with a panic stop and poor boost

The other thing about resistance, is, that it CHANGES often, with load, IE heating up, arcing, etc, so the problem can get worse. That is why I try and encourage more use of voltage checks and depend less on resistance checks. Plus, ohmeters get less and less accurate as resistance...

I once had a bank try to feed me some red dye bills. I had one hell of a time convincing that dumb cluck that I simply was not going to accept them.

check with a meter. If you did it right, you should have 12V there with the key "in run" and also whatever battery cranking voltage with key in "start" and cranking. What do you mean, "nothing?" When you turn the key to run, and IF everything else is wired, you should hear the fuel...

Do you have a multimeter with a 10-20A ammeter scale, and know how to use it? Try unhooking that field circuit, then insert your meter and see what that circuit is drawing, both, with key in "run" and with key in "crank"' Explain the "unilite power wire?" Where does it get power...

And it's WAY over 36A when guys put big alternators on, and the battery is low, or as you say, big stuff like pumps, fans, big stereos, driving lights, winches, etc etc. A big problem around here used to be snow plow hoists "Ma" knew this was a problem long about clear back around...

Yes, exactly!!! Pin 16 on the pwr dist. module, yes, you want to tie IGN1/ IGN2 together at the key and connect to pin 16

There are many guys on here run them. I do not, rather, HEI, but nothing against them except you won't find them, normally, in local stores. It would probably pay to buy TWO of the kits so you have repair parts if one fails.

What do you mean? OEM gauges are "ohm driven"

Oh so you fixed it? Very good!!

Get as far down to the basics as possible to check spark. You want to use a WIRE core coil secondary wire, even (for testing) if you have to temp use a low voltage wire, just hang it in space "Rig" a test gap, either buy a gap type tester or open up a good spark plug so the gap is...

I cannot resolve that photo, poor rez Can you find a link to download it? Your question sounds like you are on the right track

OK you are using the pre 70 setup, which means that eliminates at least one aspect, which involves an improperly grounding field which causes full tilt charge So do this: Turn key to run, engine stopped. Stab one probe into the top of the battery POS post and the other post to the...

If it makes you feel any "better" LOLOL I once had a 62 Landcruiser with a SB Mopar. I bought (lot of money then!!) S&W gauge and sender and never did get that to be very useful. Not accurate, and the gauge bounced so much it was impossible to figure out where it was LOL

The other thing you can do is buy a "MeterMatch." There are other copycat gauge correctors on ebay, I think one is called a Dolphin. This is a small box you install under the dash, the sender drives the box, and the box drives the gauge. It has some programmable adjustments to...

1....You will/ must use an ignition system that does NOT need a ballast resistor. 2....See the ballast you are holding? Jumper those two together. Then find the dark blue coil + wire which is one of the few that has an eyelet. That is what you will use to power the sniper. 3...We...

Rusty: "Git it runnin and drivin"

BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT!!!! Disconnect the battery GROUND!!! You will also have to unbolt the ammeter wires, black and red, and THEY ARE both HOT!!

Either none of this is true or VERY poorly explained. The entire purpose of IGN2 is to supply starting voltage in the form of full battery voltage to the coil during cranking. AND THAT VOLTAGE is supposed to be 10-10.5 or more during cranking, NOT 8V. In fact, coil voltage through...

Over 16 would SUGGEST (but not verify) that this is more than the usual voltage drop in the harness problem The FIRST thing we need to know is what it is that you are running for an alternator/ regulator, AKA is this isolated field with the 70/ later Mopar regulator, or something...

Have you gone over to MyMopar.com and downloaded the 72 service manual?

A lot of this may be battery/ cables, and there is always "double line" it Biggest complaint I have about my HF 2500? 2800? is that the winch drum is NOT large enough, and the drum cross ties cause the wire to bind if you do not CAREFULLY monitor it to "level wind"

I've probably posted this but I spent YEARS, actually DECADES, "leapfrogging" two come-a-longs. They come with slip hooks which are useless. I replace those with grab hooks, and try to convert them so I can "select" whether double or single line. When loading on the trailer, or...

Those can be a mess. I recommend you spend the time to pull that section out and inspect it. Work? You bet. Remember, these originally were installed or replaced with NO cutting. You may not need to pull it ALL out. Pull some out and if you see the "melt" becoming less, try to identify...