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I've run into your problem in the past and it was just a matter of rotating the distributor gear one tooth and then moving both slot adjustments on the bracket the other way.

They're also conformed in the Mitchell Interchange manual.

The factory '70-1 parts manual.

I listed both. Either one should use the same Pertronix kit.

I show that number as being a single point Chrysler distributor for a 440.

I show a '70 model uses a 2875987 for a manual trans, and 2875989 for an automatic. A replacement partial part is one digit higher on both numbers.

Looks like it was already converted to the earlier switch. Either get a replacement one like the one you pulled out, or convert back to a stock '69 setup. I have a used switch with key either way. I can key either one with your door locks as long as I have a sample. I have new door locks...

Mark sure you have a good ground from chassis to engine too.

Your extra 12V + wire is some sort of accessory? '69 and earlier just have two wires to the alternator. The 12V red battery wire and a green field wire.

Ground, float, or the sender itself. Test the ground first as it's the easiest. Add an extra ground and retest. Still bad, pull the sending unit and see of the float is flooded (After you lower the fuel level below the sender hole of course!). If so, replace it. If not, the sender is probably...

What vehicle?

Instead of having two relays.......one for auto trans and one for manual trans......they just make one replacement and you use that wire to ground one of the terminals for manual trans use. The original manual trans relay had one terminal soldered to the relay housing.

No, the shank on the switch should fit tight in the dash "keyhole" and bottom out against the back of the cluster frame. The nut just holds it in place.

Remove the fuse, attach an ammeter inline in it's place to see what amperage it's actually drawing. If it's too high for that circuit and fuse, start disconnecting the items using that circuit, one at a time until you find the one drawing more than it should. Then trace that circuit wiring from...

Sounds like a wiring connection corrosion problem there somewhere. Start at the source of power (probably right where it leaves the column would be a good place to start) and work your way to the turn signal assembly to see where the voltage drops.

Probably that junk wheel is the culprit.

The same company made ones for the later cars and trucks too.

The one you show in post#1. That's the one I've used for decades. I think I still have one or two of them somewhere.

Yes, if you need a whole new switch, get a good quality one. If however you just need the cancel cam part of it, that kit can solve the problem if installed correctly. It's not a Chinese product as for as I know. I started using them over 30 years ago and they were made here in the U.S.

If it's just the cancel part not working, that kit will most of the time work fine. If the switch is badly warped or the electrical part is bad in any way, that cancel cam won't fix that. Just take care installing it as the electrical guts can pop out if you get rough with it.

Sounds like something in the ignition system got wet.

If that were totally true, pulling battery terminals off and back on wouldn't be an issue....but it is. The voltage spikes can pop diodes. The regulator won't prevent that. A battery in the system does.

I just route them where it's the easiest, and I can still get to the bulb sockets once the cluster is installed.

Yes, but, it still has the battery in the circuit to help take any spike hits and/or excess voltage.

My guess is black=ground, white=12V+, orange=light, and blue is distributor negative terminal on the coil. I'd research it to make sure though.

Maybe you got a bad distributor. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen that. Any sort of point plate movement can cause it.

Maybe part of some sort of ancient alarm system?

Any backlash in the drive gear? Pull the distributor and use a large screw driver the twist the gear back and forth to see if it has excessive play. don't get carried away twisting the gear, or, it might pop out and move a cog or two. Just take up the lash if it has any. You can start by just...

My info is that it's a '73 Dart and Valiant only 3 speed wiper motor for whatever reason. I know some other 3 speeds can be used if you re-clock the park adjustment, and or, change the wiring plug. I've never had to do that myself, but, I know others who have claimed they were successful.

IVR is Instrument Voltage Regulator.