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I have the old ones.

Which of these pieces will I need for a Mopar 340 assembly? It looks like too many parts to me. Thank you.

Per internet search valve specifications: Mopar performance P4876397 Stainless Steel 1.88" diameter, 3/8" stem, 4.98" long Milodon 45645-8 Stainless Steel 1.60" diameter, .371" stem, 5.010"/4.93" 0.250" valve tip length (use with either 7 or 10 degree locks) I just found Mopar Factory...

These are the notations the machine shop left on the cylinder head "1623" & "1714 (photos #1) "1769" (photo #2). Another view of the intake/exhaust valves installed (photo #3).

My task this morning was supposed to measure for new pushrods. But now I'm not sure if I was mailed the correct adjustable pushrods from Smith Bros. to measure what I need. It looks to me like the cup end of the adjustable pushrods they sent are just a tweak smaller than the factory 273 pushrods...

Maybe you missed it in post above, I am using new valves (photo #2) and 1965 274 iron ductile adjustable rocker arms (photo #3). I just noticed the exhaust valves have different spring installed heights than the intakes. The machine noted measurements of spring installed height of one intake and...

How would you change that? Grind the top end of the valve stem?

I'm in Mexico, so perhaps "blueprinting" a Mopar is too much to ask. I asked the machine shop to install the new 340 factory style springs with dampers at installed height of 1.650". However, when I picked up the cylinder heads with valves/springs already installed they just told me all the...

Just curious. I put a four-speed in my 1965 Valiant four-door.

Good show: Roku

The 340 I'm currently cleaning up has a date on the #2 main cap of 9-9-71. I don't remember seeing dates on main caps before. Is this commonplace?

Thanks, but it was a two stone hone if that's what you mean.

Yes, please forgive me, went to a Brittney Spears concert in San Diego ciirca 2005. Only thing i remember besides the lip singing is my eardrums hurt at the time with all the screaming. Never again. Now to the subject at hand. I am a little out of practice with the brake cylinder hone. Must...

Just a quick hone to seat new rings and clean surface rust from lifter bores.

I'm on a tight budget and have some Generic ATF in the garage so I'll probably try to use that first. Thank you for the suggestions.

Update: Up until now, I have been working on problems with the front turn signals. Recently, they began functioning. But another problem showsed up at the rear. Will it never end? Forgot to mention that when I recently replaced the flasher with one I purchased at AutoZone, the green arrow dash...

I believe I have used brake fluid in the past for honing lifter bores and maybe cylinders. Since I believe brake fluid may soften the RustOleum red primer I used on the cylinder block, I am looking for some other lubricant. Thank you.

It always bugs me if when driving straight down the highway the steering wheel is not centered. I know in the photo my steering wheel is aftermarket, but my question is if the factory '64 - '65 steering wheel only fits one way (with one different spline/space) or can the wheel be slid on at any...

Update: While I was replacing the positive battery cable (mentioned above) I cleaned and photographed a partial casting number on the cylinder block in order to verify the installed engine was truly a 273 (not a 318). The number for 1964-66 is listed as 2465330 which would correspond to my 2465...

Update: Replaced the postive battery cable with what appears to be an exact reproduction from M&H Electric Fabrictors, Inc. (part #35225). As you can see in the photo, the original cable battery end terminal had been cut and replaced so many times in the past that it was a real stretch to make...

Are we talking about cork, cork compostion, rubber, or rubber with steel insert?

Back in the 1970's with a solid lifter camshaft I checked/adjusted valve clearance on the .580 lift/312 duration Isky camshaft I had installed in my 273 bracket racer. I would like to find a similar valve cover gasket that I used back then that I glued to the valve cover and used over and over...

Update: Now the coolant temperature gauge is working but takes a long time to make it over up to the normal operating range (like half an hour of driving). The fuel gauge came back up from empty to showing a quarter tank full. Don't know if either gauge is measuring things accurately or not.

I don't even remember seeing the short filter back in the 1960's or 1970's. With the 90 degree adaptor, no need for a short filter anyway.

Change the oil and oil filter today

FYI the old filter was a Napa Gold 1515.

I forgot to mention, this is '65 Signet convertible I'm working on today. I used a cheap ratcheting tie down strap. Did not need the ratchet. After cleaning the dirt and grime from the filter surface, I wrapped the strap around 3 times and just pulled up. It was much easier than using an oil...

I have three different styles of oil filter wrenches and they are all hiding from me. Don't really want to use the screwdriver stab.

I think I investigated this question in the past (a long time ago). The question is: I see a little white template thing inside the package that contains the felpro small block rear main seal. What is it and what is it's function? Thank you.

Update: Drove the vehicle around for about an hour today. The horn never blew on left turns. I limited use of the turn signals, but the few times I used 'em they worked OK both left and right.