So.... low oil pressure just might mean the crank needs turned. Otherwise your new bearings wont last long nor bring the pressure up to snuff.
Id pull it and look everything over with a mic.
I thought ALL 9000 series carbs were aftermarket, even the ones sold way back in the era when the cars were new?? So someone likely bought it from an autoparts store and tossed the original on his car??
Is the motor from 1973 model year??
The thrust bearing is way worse on one side, more than the other. Was the really bad side facing the damper end of the motor, or the converter end of the motor??
I always use them. For the most part, they are NOT going to be super hard to pull thru, since the hole is supposed to be really close to perfect already anyway. I have really good success with them (lifters always spin after use), but I've never tried the situation you describe. In your...
Gettin' the popcorn bucket for this one.... I did'nt think rollers and flat tappets compared apples-to-apples well?? Besides the fact that rollers welcome more aggressive profiles without severe wear and tear.
I have'nt disassembled a hydraulic lifter in eons. Are they 100% metal parts, and the ball to seat is metal to metal?? Even the plunger assy. has no rubber parts??
This may help you on your journey.... Did you look at the crank and main bearing shells for dates and info?? It may help you figure out if this motor has ever been apart before, which should go a long way towards answering if this motor is properly balanced, or if you really need a machinist...
Is that number actually on the crank you have?? If you can possibly date it, you'll notice it was according to lists, never used in a 340 or 318 in the same production years (early for 340, later for 318).
Either are OK, and used by jillions of people. Neither would be my choice, but it really depends in the budget and goals for your particular build. To put it another way, it takes a lot more detail to give a good answer to an important question.
My two cents....nearly worthless... but the sooner this guy gets something going by the seat of his pants the better. I have a relatively low compression 400 with an awesome cam that will blow your sox off... I know it can be done. He needs to get on with it. :steering:
Typically one side allows fresh air in, and the PCV valve sucks it out, and of course back into the carb, which is on the other side of the pressure zone (piston rings). You would'nt want to pull from both sides without a breather somewhere....although that's kinda what a Vac-U-Pan does.
.015 is what we always used... however as I'm sure you already know looking at the factory layout, it's just not the most critical clearance measurement in the engine. Less than. 015 may be asking for some trouble tho.
Napa is also Wix, just rebranded from what I've been told....
Someone used to post up an occasional great deal on the Wix by the case, but I've not seen that in a while.
We did it once on a 440 that someone had messed with. Rod ends were a little bluer than I would have liked and the pins wouldnt quite slip-fit in the pistons. We reconditioned them all. Unfortunately I dont have infor to report about how it tunred out because that project is still "in...
IIWY, I'd run a good oil as others have said..... I would NOT pull it apart if it runs fine. I would do a compression check to see if the numbers are consistent between all cylinders. Also, is this a mechanical or hydraulic cam?? If it's not hydraulic, just check your lash at the rockers on...
These are not cheap, and I personally have always gotten away without them, but they look like the hot ticket;
MediceMfg ...Valve Cover Spacers - Mopar