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Getting back to my question...why are you sanding paint? I see now that you are doing a 'scuff and shoot' meaning you are going over the old paint. Of course the whole job is as good as what is underneath it. In this case I would clean and sand 320....enough to rough it up. For areas...

There are lots of good resources out there…YouTube, forums, FB, etc. of course you have to figure out the knowledgeable people. I go to autobody101.com , spiuserforum and a few YT channels like Paint Society

Typically filler needs a coarser grit under it. After epoxy most people spray a 2k primer or high build primer which is much easier to sand than epoxy. Block it 180, reprime and then sand 320/400 then 600 depending on whether your going to paint or sealer.

Why are you sanding a fresh coat of paint? Are you doing a cut and polish on a base/clear paint job?

Any decent fix will require stripping down to good paint and sealing before new base/clear at a minimum.

Sure he does.

I would be interested to know too as I am converting to a vinyl top. I’ve never heard of different side trim.

I used nylon sticks to help get the glass in. They have a tapered end. I have no idea where I got them from.

they are hard to get out with the glass out so I would say highly unlikely

I'm going to do the vinyl roof and headliner before putting the glass back in. I assumed that you could do both with the glass in but it would be a pia. The vinyl roof doesn't extend under the window gaskets does it? You could tuck it in?

Eastwoods products are going to be made by someone else just like Harbor Freight's products....likely offshore like everything these days. For base and clear I would spring for a low end name brand such as Devilbliss FLG5 or Iwata Kiwami4. There is good value in buying an offshore gun if you...

I'm experimenting with a few. My Devilbliss FLG3 was ok (there are newer models now) but I am liking my Iwata Kiwami4 especially for clear. I also have an offshore Aeropro R500 A610 but I have only used it for primer so far. Harbor Freight's Black Widow gets good reviews on the paint and...

After my last project I am a big believer in saving as many factory welds as possible and replacing metal at the minimum. However, you have to consider that welding on old metal doesn't yield good results. It can work but won't be pretty which isn't a big consideration on a floor for many.

It depends what you want....a quick fix (nothing wrong with that) or the highest quality fix. I would say good luck welding a patch in to that rusty metal so you would be looking at a new front floor. For a quick fix I would try Por15 Patch. You got not much to lose.

I seriously doubt they are functional as they are too low to the hood. The air will travel overtop of them.

I've done a lot of research into spray guns. Its the internet....there are a lot of opinions out there :). The Black Widow is very popular as is the Iwata Kiwami 4 which I own. It sprays base/clear nice. Its one of the cheaper Iwata guns because its made in Vietnam (I think). I also bought a...

I’m basically going with the OPs plan. I’m a little concerned about hiding the door cut in lines but I don’t want to fool around mounting panels after it’s painted.

Learned something today....the shoulder of the pivot goes up against the other hinge half sandwiching the two pieces with a ton of clearance....factory design as far as I can tell.

There is a ton of slop in my hood hinges so I'm going to take a shot at fixing/modifying the pivot pin. The plan is to use a door hinge pin in the small hole and to drill out the big end of the rivet to accept it then weld it up (I'm hoping it it weldable). What I am wondering is how tight to...

I waited a year to get my Legendary front bucket covers. They are nice but I wouldn't say perfect. That said I seriously doubt an upholstery shop could reproduce them for less. Recovering seats is an expensive proposition.

I didn't know about that. They are only $80 on Amazon. If the hinge rebuild doesn't go well I will get them.

I ordered Rick's kit. As a note the ream size is 0.406" and the Dorman bushing kit says 0.420" for the bushing so there is very little difference in 'meat' remaining in the hinge body.

Founda link Restorations by Rick Kreuziger - Product and Component Restoration Detailed Information

I think I can find 3/8" pins and I probably have a reamer already. Springs are available but then I still have old star wheels or whatever they are called.

I'm looking at replacing my drivers side lower door hinge as its a bit sloppy. Looking at the AMD and OER hinge pics they are both bushed. It seems that bushed pins are not great as there is not much meat in the that area. Perhaps I worry too much as they won't get a ton of use. Shipping...

Not ragging on anyone but the word lacquer is pretty much meaningless. I think of it as a thick clear coat used to paint wood. Some use it referring to products available 40+ years ago that are nla and some are referring to modern clear coat and everything in between. Just an old guy's pet...

I thought the hood was all black or all body color on the 70 Dart. Is this true?

I'm no pro but I would say not critical unless your gun is a big air hog and you have a long run. Dry clean air is important as well as quality of your prep work and spray room cleanliness.

I just tried out my new Iwata Kiwami 1.3 on base and clear. I like it. My FLG3 is a primer gun. I also ordered an offshore Aeropro R500 A10 for $80 c/w 4 tips. I’m not sure if that will be a base, clear or primer gun. ps I hear the FLG5 is a very good gun

At least 2 if you include those that make partials but not a lot of choices