Update…SUCCESS!!…found proper converter locally ( thanks Inertia!!)…turns over fine…it was the tooth count…now on to other peripherals to complete this setup!
Thanks for everyone’s input!
I just counted the ring gear teeth on this converter… I got 148 teeth… that’s definitely the problem… my starters don’t mesh at all with it.
Here’s a pic to show the difference… left is SB 727 TC and one on right is the 148 tooth one.
Sorry…I stand corrected on the descriptions. Yes…small pilot… with Pat Blais’s adapter ring to large crank. I may have the 148 tooth ring gear converter. Like I said, I just picked this one out of a friend’s pile not knowing the 2 different tooth counts.
Starter’s fine… I have tried 3 altogether, and same problem.
I think I have a clue though… cut a window in the bell to see the starter/converter area. It appears I have a converter that has too many teeth, too close together as the Bendix teeth wont mesh with the ring gear teeth. I have video...
Ok, I tried lifting the converter by placing a piece of pipe in the drive hub and prying up, to take the weight… converter didn’t move at all….B+ M weighted flex plate behind the converter doesn’t have much “flex”…and powering the starter while prying up makes no difference… grinds the same. The...
Just for ***** and giggles, what if I cut the converter open and removed a bunch of the excess weight...basically just leaving the ring gear and a bit of the outside housing?
Rusty… you might be right. I just figured this was a way to run the engine before installing. I had the access to the converter and bell housing cheap.
Patient::: 74 360 block and '66 904 automatic bellhousing with early 904 (small hub) converter with B+M weighted flexplate ...on engine run stand. I cannot stop the starter from grinding. I have tried several starters to no avail. Is the tin spacer/cover required for proper starter/converter...
“There are about 521, 672 postings on the web that will tell us that it's fine to run without a kd and you can just shift it manually.”
… which is why it’s incorrect to call it “kickdown” linkage, which IS one of it’s functions, but the correct term is “hydraulic pressure” linkage.
Possibly. I would think the 2-3 shift should be the same as the 1-2 shift, albeit really early, in that instance. If it shifts from 1st to 2nd properly, with kickdown linkage adjusted correctly, but not 2nd to 3rd, I’d say you’re looking inside the trans.
My chart doesn’t give any info on that, sorry. Would those numbers have anything to do with the 10,000 day calendar? Maybe someone else will chime in with info.
Dodge truck, 81, 6-225 A727, B,D1/2/350, long extension, 2wd.
Dodge Plymouth, 82-85,6-225,B/D1/2/350, long extension, lockup converter,2wd.
I think lockup should have electric connection on the case somewhere?