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If the noise sounds tinny, I would suspect that the sealer between the exterior sheet metal and the underside support bracing has separated. If the sealant has turned loose, try this experiment, fold a couple of pieces of cardboard and put it between the bracing and the sheet metal. If the noise...

One of the automotive shows said put two clear coats on thinned as directed and two thinned down just a bit more. They claimed not to have to cut and buff it that way. I'm just repeating what I saw, I've never tried it that way yet.

Looks good, so far. Post pictures of the finished product, please.

Those gaskets and tail lights never were a good fit on the 70 and 71 Dusters. I fought them many times and just made sure I had a good seal so no water entered around them.

Sand and spray the door jam and the inside of the fender first, test alignment of new panels and then sand the outer surfaces to paint. Be sure the paint is a good match, otherwise you will have to blend it to the existing paint.

Some one here posted a template with measurements on the site a while back, I just don't remember their name.

This all started about 15 years ago when people jumped on the bandwagon about VOCs and what they due to the environment. The amount of damage done by shops is minuscule compared to the damage done by large industries. It's just another way for businesses to get into the little guy consumers pocket.

I don't think the remote mirrors were offered in '65, I think they started about '68.

The 74 hood has a raised line on the hood and there were some scoops made to conform to that versus the flat hoods on the earlier A bodies.

They are of pretty decent quality, you may have to do a bit of sanding for fitment.

I think Leo took some time off from building hinges.

As TrailBeast said, magnetic sign material. Go to someplace like Fast Signs and see if they have an irregular piece of scrap, or a piece you can buy.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use WD40. That will only make it worse later on.

Get a closer picture and someone here can decode it for you.

If you have the fender tag or the build sheet, that will tell you.

Look at "Best-AutoParts" on EBay, they have the scoop for 150.00 to 160.00.

Put an ad in the "Wanted" section, I'm sure someone here will ship to you.

Are you referring to the stainless channel that attaches to the A pillar and runs back to the C pillar?

Details would be nice, I just have an affinity for old pre war sedans as I've owned a few in my 60+ years of hot rodding and drag racing.

I like the idea of the updraft, tell us more about the pros and cons once you have tried it out. OBTW, what is the story on the dark colored sedan in the first picture?

Check with the bigger body shops in your area to see if they have a supplier that does paint matching.

I don't believe so, the 69 had a wing window and the 73 has a one piece glass.

Go to Harbor Freight and get a few of their cheap telescoping magnets and follow instruction above. Get a small dead blow hammer and "tap" around with the magnet inside the hole.

The alignment on these cars was never perfect from the assembly line. Trying to make the gaps perfect takes a TON of patience and even more work. I applaud you in your efforts and wish you a lot of luck.

Very nice guy, easy to deal with, does good work and is reasonable.

@MoparLeo

@Oldmanmopar , I'll be willing to bet he has baskets of them and he really reasonable on his prices.

Ask OMM for the 7 digit part number on the Demon housings, that way you are sure what you are looking for at Carlisle.

PM me your email address and I'll send you some pictures of mine.

There is a member here who rebuilds them. @MoparLeo