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Yep it's the easiest way to do it! Fully dressed with headers and fabricated valve covers on my trick flow headed 440.

Starters are trash now! Use to be able to just order some random starter for a 93 dakota and it would work no matter what for years. Now even spending for an MSD one and it's a roll of the dice!

Since it looks like you already have your answer I would like to add that I moved from a 4 row champion rad to a 2 row cold case one and i went from overheating (like 240+) to not seeing over 210 at any point thus far. Very happy with my Cold Case rad personally.

Ok I'm calling the car fixed! Let it idle for 20 min then soak in the heat for 10 and it cranked right up. What I did: Changed the starter to an OLD mini start off the shelf which helped but I also didn't want a 20+ year old starter on the car so I ordered a Summit brand one Added another...

So I just ordered one of these, should be here tomorrow. Am I correct that I can take this to the starter and draw the load right at the starter lugs using this tool and test for voltage drop vs having to have someone start it?

Agree. My battery is at 12.98 (just checked). Hasn't been on a charger, that's just what it is sitting at after having the car run for 30 or so min a few days back while testing out starters.

Yep I have... Going to add some more ground today (front frame rail and rear frame rail at a minimum).

Thought that was only if it was charging the system...

Tests have been letting the car idle with the hood shut for 20-30 min (been raining) which get the coolant up to 190. Voltage while running 13.2-13.6. Voltage when attempting the hot start is 12.8-13.1.

Tried another starter (joys of hoarding parts!). I believe this was an OLD Mopar performance starter. It has offset wire hookup from the factory. I'm seeing a drop on my display to about 8v (happens so fast it's hard to see) on the first crank but it's turning over wayyyy better than it did...

Just wrapped up the ford starter and she fired right up... going to let it get up to temp while I clean up and see what it does hot... Update: Same damn **** when it got hot. 0 change with the ford starter relay....

Just to update this thread as people are engaged (thank you all for ideas and thoughts). I'm going through and adding the ford starter relay as mentioned early and noticed the riv-nut I used as my ground in the trunk was loose! So while I was grounding up front by the motor I'm sure the...

So the tester I have is the old school resistant type tester (where you hold a switch on the bottom for 10 seconds and watch the gauge to see where it falls). I also used a larger group size battery for testing from my 04 Ram SRT10 and saw no difference. I don't have an ammeter, I have a volt...

I don't have a dial style torque wrench so not sure I would do a drag test to be honest...

Auto. So I've used two different starters and no difference in cranking.

To the Posts on the front fender. Tried to go right to the starter when I had it on the lift but couldn't get the clamps in there without touching the block. I have post relocations on the starter. The solid brass or copper ones like Mancini sells. Bought it from the guy that was making them...

Runs great once fired up, temps get to 210 and fall to 190-210 seeming regardless of the situation I've put it in so far. Have about 100-150 miles on the motor First starter was a generic mini for a 93 Dakota then moved to the MSD DynaForce. No changes to how it cranked hot or cold.

D3400 XS Power Batteries D3400 XS Power AGM Batteries | Summit Racing

100% agree its acting like a bad connection but everything has been made new with copper wire now. I fought this a few weeks back and found out some of the wires I had used before were CCA vs Copper. Changing over to copper helped for a couple weeks but then last night she acted up again...

Backing off timing didn’t change anything tried that last night. Again it’s only at 12 degrees advance per the Pro-Flo’s requirement.

Cranks like a dead battery drops to 6-8v and is very slow to crank and does not start. Battery is a new XS power with 1100 cranking amps. Have used a jump box and tried a different battery and no change.

I'm out of ideas on what could be going on with my Dart and not wanting to start. 1/0 Copper welding wire from the trunk mounted battery to a 300amp circuit breaker the up to the front of the car on the driver side fender. I also have a 1/0 cable up to the front for ground as well as a 1' long...

No one has ever removed or installed the trim around their back window???

Was able to get the side moldings installed. Do the rear moldings just screw into the rubber gasket for the back glass. Again we’re taking the interior rear glass trim.

The black parts in this picture are what I'm asking about.

71 Dart Swinger.

Trying to put back together my car after freeing it from paint shop jail and apparently the guy that took the car apart for them was a drunk who's dead now soooooo I'm stuck trying to figure out how some interior parts go back together. The two I'm struggling with are the painted rear window...

I gave up on waiting for my Hotchkiss shocks. Cost me a little more but ride tech shocks are made by fox as well and ship same day from summit. Sucks that Hotchkiss has fallen so far that they can't even get orders shipped anymore.

Worst part is holley has been buying up everyone.

Hotchkis hasn't answered a phone call, voice mail or email in months. Check out their instagram, rather than filling orders they are just cancelling them if people ask for updates. They also have shut down comments on newer videos after all the backlash from cancelling people's orders...