Search results for query: *

I used the Crane 1.6 rockers so I could have an adjustable valve train. And I never checked to see the lift at the retainer either. I always thought that the stamped stock rockers were less than the rated ratio, the same way the LA rockers were.

As far as oil I use 20w50 Valvoline so that shouldn't be an issue. And I have thought about going to stock parts but I wanted to make sure the 1.6 ratio is accurate. I really doubt the stock rocker is a 1.6 ratio but it's reliable and quiet. What I should have done is go 2 steps bigger am...

Hey All! I'm using Chevy style 1.6 Crane rockers on my magnum heads and they seem to be working ok except for the valvetrain noise. Sounds like it has a solid cam with all the ticking. I was wondering if anyone ever looked at the issues to install a small block Ford shaft system on a...

I'll see how these plugs are coloring in another 100 miles and I might try to go another number hotter just to see if makes a difference.

Yes. It's much smoother and I set the idle RPM at 650 because the 700 that the manual calls for is too high and it slams into reverse when set that high.

Just an update on the tuning of my engine. The spark plugs were changed one heat range hotter. I replaced the metering rods with rods that are 8% leaner in cruise and power modes. It developed a lean bog just before the secondary opened. So I replaced the orange step up springs with pink...

I drove my car today for and I noticed it started about the same but idled smoother at 750 and there is a 50 rpm drop from neutral to drive so that worked out. I haven't tried a hotter plug yet but will try that Monday and maybe the new metering rods will be here by then too. I don't know what...

I used clear engine enamel on mine 14 years ago. It never came loose but it yellowed and made it difficult to see the marks. Better to scribe your marks thru the tape and then take it off.

Ok I'll pick some up and try them. I am open to all suggestions and appreciate everyone's input.

I will install the fatter mixture rod. which won't help the idle, and try it with a hotter plug. If that doesn't bring satisfactory results I'm going to switch to a AVS2. My carb probably needs some drilling and sleeves in the idle circuit to lean it out.

I have .030 of exposed transfer slot exposed to vacuum and my mixture screws out 1 3/4 turns for best lean idle.

That's true Rob. I'll remove the mixture rod covers today to confirm the rods are staying down in the bores.

Well AJ I pulled the carb and the transfer slot was a perfect square so no adjustment was needed. I set the idle screws to the highest rpm and it was at 650 in drive. They were screwed out 1 3/4 turns same as before. I backed off the timing a bit to get the 750 in park number and connected to...

Your fine. No worries here. The Edelbrock rods will be here tomorrow and I can get a better read on a hotter plug.

Right. I have the rods for the carb coming that will lean it out. Just waiting for the mail. It'll lean out 8% at cruise and power. I just picked up one step hotter spark plug to try. When the rods get here I'll take it on the expressway and get a clean shutoff and cut that plug apart...

When the engine was built the math did work out to a touch over 9:9 to 1. Like I said before that Don spun the distributer and set all the advance and vac can for me. I filled out a very long spec sheet that he sent me and he came up with the curve. And if you look at some of the first...

When I set the idle mixture screws I turned them all the way in until it stumbled then turned out 1/4 turn. That seemed to help more than using a vacuum gauge. Cut another plug open today and it's a little bit rich. If you look down the threaded shell you can see it's black all the way down.

I put a timing light on it yesterday and at idle the engine is really happy at 35 degrees advanced and it has 20 inches of vacuum. I tried to check the advance at idle with the 16 initial and connected to manifold vacuum but the bulb burned out on my timing light. I was told by FBO when...

Thanks all for the coaching. I had my distributer spun by Don at FBO and I just dug up the build sheet on it. It says initial is at 16 degrees. Vacuum timing can is 14 degrees at 14 inches of vacuum. 18 degrees at 3400. I set the timing at 34 degrees at 3400 rpm with the vac advance...

I am having a carbon problem on my intake and exhaust valves that I cleaned up last winter. It was quite thick on the intake and the exhaust indicating it was running very rich for years. It's all back together now and I'm trying to get it to burn cleaner. It's a 9.9:1 340 with magnum...

I have thought about that too. I just wanted to get it running and driving for this summer because I have had a hell of a hard time getting the top of the engine back together after I disassembled last fall. It would be something I would do in the future for sure.

I used both. Plates against the head and the gasket between the manifold and the plates. Haven't driven it yet but plan to today, when the fog clears, to the gas station.

The gaskets worked so far! I have to do the right side now because it's ticking too.

Your Air Gap will not allow you to close the hood. I have the same setup as you and I have an Edelbrock carb with a 5/16" gasket and I had to use a drop base air cleaner and remove the insulation from under the hood. Mancini Racing fixed me up on the drop base and chrome top.

The manifold is warped .008 on the center two ports. I'm gonna try the Remflex gaskets and not have the manifold cut.

Here are some crude plates I cut 20 years ago. I used .063 mild steel

Did you use them on a stock magnum head? Maybe this is the answer.

Yes, that's the problem at the bottom of the port with stock replacement magnum heads. The 340 manifolds are a large LA port and the magnums are a small port head. I made some 16 gauge block off plates like Dion R made and they leak slightly around both sides of the plate. it's not much...

I thought about having them brazed but didn't want to molest my 340 manifolds. I can't believe I'm the only person that has run into this.

Thanks I did catch the interference between the head and manifold and ground down the head. Using a flange was something I thought about too. A magnum flange with extra meat around it to catch the LA manifold but I wouldn't want it to be very thick. Maybe 3/16" would be about right...