Search results for query: *

I've been working on my 1973 Duster, a base /6 car. It has the power front disc brakes. We were putting a new stainless steel fuel line in the car, and to make it easier, I took off the right rear wheel. While the wheel was off, I pulled off the brake drum to see how the brakes were. I was...

I put together a video of my 1973 Duster I recently got. For the most part it is nothing you haven't seen before, except for the add on gizmos and gadgets under the hood, creative wiring, excessive numbers of zip ties, etc. If you're bored, come take a look. I also showed some photos of the...

Thanks for the tips. I got the Spectra CU511 today. It looks like it'll be okay, I went and test fitted it. The tubes are 18 inches tall as opposed to 17 on the old radiator. Total height from radiator cap sealing ridge to bottom tank of 23-1/2" as opposed to 22-1/2" on the old one. Plus...

I went to Summit and ordered a Spectra CU511, along with a 7 pound lever vent radiator cap. I always ran 7 pound caps back in the day. Should be here in a few days. Thanks for the tips.

I'm working on my 1973 Duster 225 /6 car. The radiator looked pretty good from the outside, no obvious corrosion or anything, but I had it at the local radiator shop getting cleaned out and checked, and they said that the more they got into it, the worse it was. Surprised but disappointed. I...

I figured out what the mystery aluminum box was. It was part of the add on cruise control system. My handyman and I worked on the car yesterday for a few hours, and had a good game of "What does this wire do?" going for a few hours. He is half my size, so he got the job of crawling under the...

Looking for a 70-76 A body standard instrument cluster assembly. The one that came in my 73 Duster is okay, but someone hacked it up to add extra gauges and took out the 2 warning lights to the right of the speedometer to install a vaccum gauge. So I'd like to find a nice original to clean and...

Update. After soaking in vinegar for almost 2 days, I took the metering block out, cleaned it, and blasted it every way possible with carb cleaner through all the holes. While drying it off, I was getting a gray colored residue, similar to what anti-seize compound looks like. I guess the...

Interesting, I've always wanted something like that to mess around with. $750 is a bit of cash, but then again, where else will you find something like this? I'll keep this message and think on it. For now, I just want to get the engine running reliably. I've done some kickdown linkage...

Update. I went out to the carburetor parts and got out the can of carburetor cleaner spray. I blew through all the holes in the carburetor body, and they seem to be free and unclogged. The idle air bleed hole had no problem blasting a solid stream of cleaner spray out the transfer slot and...

I read the articles and looked at the diagrams and learned some things. In the carburetor main body, I didn't do anything to shoot cleaning fluid down the high speed air bleed or the idle air bleed, I'll try blasting some carb cleaner back and forth through that. And even though I cleaned out...

The one real mod I'm planning for my '73 Duster is a Super Six setup, so if someone has all the parts, I might get it. Aluminum intake, either OEM or aftermarket Carter BBD carburetor Air cleaner to fit the carburetor. Original factory style, not some chrome aftermarket one. Brackets to hold...

I messed around with it some more today, made minor progress at best. I took the carburetor off and trimmed out the gasket around the one hole I thought might be an issue. Turns out it is the hole leading to the fuel vapor canister purge port. I screwed the one idle screw all the way in, felt...

Vacuum is around 16 to 18 when it was idling, before it warms up. I haven't checked the PCV or EGR yet, but they are old and sitting for years, so it wouldn't surprise me if they were not in perfect condition. I remember the old screwdriver trick, just hadn't done it yet.

I've got the /6 in my 1973 Duster running. I took my time with it. I got rid of the CDI ignition, and today I went over the vacuum hoses and found a few leaks or just plain unplugged hoses. I replaced the distributor vacuum advance hose, and the hose going to the fuel vapor canister purge...

I disconnected the CDI box today, and put the ignition wiring back to stock. It ran, even on the old ECU that had its rubbery filler falling out the back. As someone had said, it was indeed 2 little circuit board pieces insulating the pairs of wires. Tomorrow I might unbolt it from the fender...

MadScientistMat already called it a few posts above, unless he doesn't want it. I'll go pull it off in the next few days and make sure the engine still starts.

Today I fired up the engine for the first time. I took a 1 gallon gas can and ran a hose into the fuel pump, cranked it to fill the carburetor, put the spark plugs in, and it started up right away! Engine sounds pretty quiet. I tried running it both with the red button in and out, it ran both...

67Dart, thanks for the clarification and details on the CDI system. My only question at this point is the red button on the CDI box. Someone mentioned having it pushed in or out enables / disables the CDI, and leaves it to run on the stock system, but I'm not sure which is which. I went and...

For Part 2 of our "What the hell is this" series, this as yet unidentified aluminum box is bolted to the firewall of my '73 Duster. It has a manifold vacuum line going to it, and white power wires to several small relays near the battery, and I have no idea what this thing is supposed to do...

Someone mentioned that this CDI ignition would use a points distributor to trigger it. I checked today, and the car has the stock electronic ignition distributor, no points. Looking at it some more, how is this thing supposed to work? It receives +/- 12 volts from the power wires bolted to...

Yes I will do that, I will have no need for it once I get the car running normally.

I'm working on my recently acquired '73 Duster /6, and there's a bunch of add on junk under the hood, among them is a CDI ignition system. I'm taking all that stuff out, I want it on the factory ECU / dual ballast ignition and wiring. I drove that way for many years and miles, it is good...

What about the red button? What is it for, and should it be pushed in or left out to make the car run?

I'm getting my newly acquired 1973 Duster ready to start up again, and part of that is taking off all the stupid junk the previous owner put on. He obviously had access to a J.C. Whitney catalog, and more money than brains. Among the things this car has are: 1. Rear air shocks with an on...

Here's the sending unit I pulled out of the tank. This doesn't look right, isn't there supposed to be a strainer on there? And what about the compression fitting attachment? Whoever worked on this car years ago was a big fan of compression fittings, I took the pump to carb fuel line out...

I called a place to rebuild the sender. $350 and a 10 week backlog. Damn. Looks like I'll just order a new one, I hate to use one with that much shorter arm on it, but I guess it'll work.

Where's the best place to find the filter strainer for in the tank, and also the sealing ring for the gas tank filler pipe?

Yes, I'll do some shopping for tanks and lines. I already changed the fuel pump for a new Advance Auto Parts one. Wasn't going to trust the old one to not leak gas into the oil. But the fuel sending unit, aren't the rheostats wound wrong to make the gauge at least factory level accurate...

I'm about to clean out the fuel tank on a '73 Duster, and I was going to just change the whole sending unit assembly, but if it can be cleaned up, then just replacing the fuel strainer would be ok. When can I get a replacement fuel strainer? I've looked at that Meter Match thing, and it looks...