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My ‘60s are no where near as fast as you guys but I built my own tri 4 link and had bad body roll until I installed the ARB. Now it launches straight and is really stable down the track.

So what’s your basic method then? It seems everyone has an opinion on what’s “correct”. Carb is set to a baseline 2.5 turns on the idle mix screws, idle speed screw is set to achieve a square transfer slot. Initial timing is 5 degrees at 650rpm (on the last step of fast idle cam, shop manual...

Have been chasing my tail on my 69 Barracuda, 318, auto, have posted other questions. Last installed was a Pertronix Distributor with there Ignitor II module and there correct coil, [ no resistor, full power to the coil and dist, per there directions] with that I was able to have car start, but...

More wind!

That’s pretty close I’d say. Bounce it a few times front and back and at all corners and measure again. I’d bet it’s impossible to keep static measurements.

That's almost exactly what I did, but I made templates of the ports instead of using a gasket. It was a cheap manifold I had on hand, so I used it, while understanding it's not much (if any) better than a factory cast-iron one. Chances are good I'll swap it out for a Weiand 8002 I've got on the...

Heres the engine stand

@Dana

That's the exact same method I used, twice, on some old trucks, about 30 years ago or so. Maybe we learned about this from the same source! (Hot Rod mag, perhaps?) Regardless, I know the OP has a hoist, but I hate working over my head, so if thicker oil isn't an option, if it were up to me I'd...

Forget about the vacuum advance for now. Plug the damn port and get a base tune up in the poor thing. Then worry about vacuum advance.

I have a 66 273 HiPo block, crank and heads for sale. A little crusty but should clean up. Had to beat 2 pistons out and has some rust in a few of the bores. I measured the bore with dial veneers at 3.625, so looks like standard bore size. Asking $100, including the engine stand Hope someone is...

I used this stuff years ago when I did mine. Didn’t even know about it the static issue, but looks like they already had it covered. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX

i agree Rusty , the bolts are the bigger 7/16'' arp bolts that came with the plate . I have been running this setup for about 12 years now without problem . There must be a reason or maybe it's at the end of it's life .

IF this is a "I wonder what this would do" experiment, pull one bearing out of the cap. If std. size, get a set of .001" oversize. or plastigauge and see what clearance is. please disregard, just typing with out thinking.

Agree with most posts, increase CR, advance cam. But, at this point maybe consider a regrind of the cam and resurface of the lifters. That cam would probably work as a good core to grind something better suited for your application. I get that budget matters but maybe price it out.

If you're getting the parts for free, or, virtually so, sure. The wheels should work for both. Otherwise, save your money for a disc brake changeover where you will probably need to change the wheels depending one which brake setup you use.

Did you double check the bolts are the correct diameter for the flex plate? If they are smaller than the holes, that could have caused it as well. It seems very unusual all four ears would "just break".

That's what I tell everybody at shows and cruises. Those 66's do look sexy black.

Thanks i just checked , end play checked out fine . all four ears are broken off just inside the bolt holes .

I would be doing it standing up. Cam bearings don't see reciprocating wear, they see rotational. It has been my experience that crank bearings see far more wear than cam bearings. When I sell something and I want top dollar, I do NOT want it coming back to haunt me. I make the car as...

my Wife would love it! one slight addition-air horns, preferably from a train. Oops, I see them on the "running board", need 'em on the roof of the cab.

I ended up using a pro street box from leash for my fuses and relays. So small, it fits on the metal behind the driver's side kick panel and the vent still fits.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282280596725

I’m wondering how this setup is coming along. I’m interested in finding more about the electric steering option. Yours is the only thing I’ve seen so far. I’m about to send my car to a restoration shop for some fairly major work and would like to decide if electric power steering is an option...

I bet the cam bearing wear is half as much or less since it turns at half crank speed, and has a constant load. Crank bearings do much more work than cam bearings. You'll be fine doing it in the car, old bearings come out easily. Change the oil pump while you are in there with a new standard...

I use my timing light. It has an accurate tach on it.

Check the crankshaft end play. A worn thrust bearing is one reason that could happen.

If you do this and it's not clean enough for you. Just drive it around a few days and go do it again. It will be cleaner the next time. Also know the super clean will not be kind to aluminum, it will mark it up and etch it.

same here, first oil change small block 68 Camaro with headers. had to use a screwdriver but I was lucky it loosened it just enough to remove the whole (holey) filter.

Love your Dart. I would steer clear of air shocks for sure. I had them on a car in a previous life and they did make the car look cool for the time but the car rode like crap. Big old L60x15's on the back and every damn bump I hit especially turning the *** end wanted to come around.