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There was no innerwebz back in the day, so we used to go to a magazine store or Pep Boys and read their Chilton manual, cuz we were too broke to buy our own copy..

I think calling her a lady is giving her the benefit of the doubt

when i swapped to 4 speed in my 68 valiant i fitted small nutserts to the original floor and tunnel around the new hole. that way i could bolt the 4 speed hump in place which with it removed made installing to shifter rods much much easier. just something to consider before you weld yours in...

Those will not fit the 66’ no bump out

I’m convinced it will run relatively well. But this forum and multiple others are FULL of guys complaining about “soft bottom end” and things like that. It’s rampant. I’m not a Freiberger type who thinks just getting it running is the cats ***. It may be if you are building multiple cars for...

That might say more about the girl than the bike

That is what I was thinking, my buddies stroker, the converter balloned so bad it also took out the thrust bearing along with the flexplate.

Here's an article from Hughes website about measuring the manifold gap.

Looks like a good solid start. I would get it running and moving safely under its own power before randomly tearing it apart.

It just will not work! Call any cam mfg. and ask them. He would be much better off just using a stock 318 cam. I'll bet he could get one on here for free + shipping. You are giving the man the wrong info.

My friends car just ran 6.40 in not the best weather at Norwalk and that would be a 10.0’s in the 1/4. 60 foot times aren’t where they should be yet, only shifting at 6400 rpm with his 408 with ported Edelbrock heads and ported super Victor at 3200 pounds. There’s 3-4 things I Dont like about...

Hard to read, looks like, after short research. 2658920-1 2465315-4 Both threaded for 3/8 intake bolts.

Young lady we know has this posted on the side windows of her car…

You should continue using the vacuum gauge.

don't let perfect be the enemy of good enough. you want every last drop of performance? then splash the cash and build that ricky racer motor. otherwise knock it fwd a few degrees and ship that mother trucker. it'll be fffiiiinnnneee.

My first suggestion would be to get the car down to 3000-3200 pounds (closer to 3000 the better) and get the chassis right. At that weight Edelbrock or Speedmaster heads can get you there with porting.

I’m expecting to set things a few times and tinker a lot. So questions about the process.. With it stumbling at hot idle should I first adjust the speed screw or the base timing? Once base idle is established do I adjust the mixture screws for best idle/vacuum before bringing the vacuum can...

I have this one. Measures 1 7/8"

Picture of my 72 Duster as I described in post #13. Kinda hard to see all the rake because I held the camera with the lines of the car, but the rake is there. Pretty certain this is the stance you are looking for on your 69 Dart. I know my Duster is not in clean mode but I do drive it and not...

You need a vacuum gauge. You can use that to zoom right in on the air screw adjustment and to see where the engine wants the timing to be.

I'm in Rockledge, 32955

Most of mine aren’t crazy close but worth the drive 40 miles keystone 85 miles Quaker City 160 miles Dragway 42 200 miles Norwalk Tracks I no longer go to 200 miles Columbus 290 miles Maple Grove The top 4 give me more than enough races to choose from.

Compact. They are big by today's standards.

I am thinking I will be selling these to get either Dougs or the proper TTIs. Once I make the final decision I will contact you moparlvr166, It would be a hefty shipping bill I am sure from Ontario Canada to Sothern California.

We have a huge parts network hre for sure. The are are a lot of good memberd to buy from.

Give the engine what it wants, stop worrying about trying to hit a specific number or target for timing, turns of idle mixture screws ect. Don’t be afraid to adjust the idle speed screw a little from a square transfer slot either way, give it the idle timing it needs to maintain a smooth idle...

Where are you in Florida ?? Hope to be at the Garlits show early November.

He seems pretty bent on using the cam, which is fine. It can be made to run really well leaving compression right where it is. The problem is, you cannot convince people of that. Yeah, it'll make more power with more compression, but I just bet it's not worth the extra money spent.

The shifter hump as arrived;) I was getting a little worried, but usps came through~ Marc (bb66cuda)(did a great job packaging, now a little trimmin and all will be GREAT! ;)