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Make 100% certain #1 is on TDC compression. Sure sounds like you are on #6.

I run a solid MP flexplate. (No cut outs) 65

I just don't buy that. Not all four. Did you check to see if the converter has ballooned?

I have not read everything in this thread, but I'm gonna assume (you know what happens then) that the difference is whether cloth wrapped ptfe, or stainless wrapped. I had several leaks through the walls of old rubber braided line, so I've used teflon exclusively each time a leaker is replaced...

I bought the lift in 2015. I built the shop in 2006 with the intention of installing a car lift. I am still fully capable of "flat back" work but this is so much better. I lose perspective of what is the left and what is the right when I'm laying down. Standing while working is a lot easier.

If #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke the rotor should be pointing at the #1 cylinder. As you stated, front left. 65

Friend in his bloomer headed dark blue 71 Dart has been 9.90 thus far in his car, couple 9.93’s too.

say waht?!?? we all love a good story around here. whatever the circumstances, i'm glad you got it back!

Don’t complain if your ever in Hawaii that’s how they make their electricity for the islands old used locomotive engines I’ve seen them myself courtesy of an Hawaiian electric employee

It's not so much the budget, it's the fact that I hate breaking in a cam. I hate the thought, even, of breaking in a cam. So much that my next motor (if I have need for one) will be the '89 roller 360 under the bench. I know that makes me stubborn, even maybe coming across as argumentative (or...

Post your measurements when you get them, I have a small pile of extras that might help out.

We were there, my brother had the fastest Challenger 1320 in the class. He went a couple of rounds. He's still learning how to drive the finish line. We got there Thursday morning and left Monday morning. We had a blast!!!

I believe that to be what I am using on my 340 trouble free.

The spray was distroyed completely and the case where it holds the steel spray insert is broken apart and a crack running down the side

If it’s in the budget I’d opt for a cam that’s a closer match for the mild gears and converter. Something more like a 268 cam.

well, la dee da! look at you mister fancy pants! kindly excuse me while i go writhe around on my tijuana creeper™ like a peasant all kidding aside, that take some of stink outta the job. i'd mark it a pain in three dickholes with a lift.

My ‘60s are no where near as fast as you guys but I built my own tri 4 link and had bad body roll until I installed the ARB. Now it launches straight and is really stable down the track.

So what’s your basic method then? It seems everyone has an opinion on what’s “correct”. Carb is set to a baseline 2.5 turns on the idle mix screws, idle speed screw is set to achieve a square transfer slot. Initial timing is 5 degrees at 650rpm (on the last step of fast idle cam, shop manual...

Have been chasing my tail on my 69 Barracuda, 318, auto, have posted other questions. Last installed was a Pertronix Distributor with there Ignitor II module and there correct coil, [ no resistor, full power to the coil and dist, per there directions] with that I was able to have car start, but...

More wind!

That’s pretty close I’d say. Bounce it a few times front and back and at all corners and measure again. I’d bet it’s impossible to keep static measurements.

That's almost exactly what I did, but I made templates of the ports instead of using a gasket. It was a cheap manifold I had on hand, so I used it, while understanding it's not much (if any) better than a factory cast-iron one. Chances are good I'll swap it out for a Weiand 8002 I've got on the...

Heres the engine stand

@Dana

That's the exact same method I used, twice, on some old trucks, about 30 years ago or so. Maybe we learned about this from the same source! (Hot Rod mag, perhaps?) Regardless, I know the OP has a hoist, but I hate working over my head, so if thicker oil isn't an option, if it were up to me I'd...

Forget about the vacuum advance for now. Plug the damn port and get a base tune up in the poor thing. Then worry about vacuum advance.

I have a 66 273 HiPo block, crank and heads for sale. A little crusty but should clean up. Had to beat 2 pistons out and has some rust in a few of the bores. I measured the bore with dial veneers at 3.625, so looks like standard bore size. Asking $100, including the engine stand Hope someone is...

I used this stuff years ago when I did mine. Didn’t even know about it the static issue, but looks like they already had it covered. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX

i agree Rusty , the bolts are the bigger 7/16'' arp bolts that came with the plate . I have been running this setup for about 12 years now without problem . There must be a reason or maybe it's at the end of it's life .

IF this is a "I wonder what this would do" experiment, pull one bearing out of the cap. If std. size, get a set of .001" oversize. or plastigauge and see what clearance is. please disregard, just typing with out thinking.