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Agree with most posts, increase CR, advance cam. But, at this point maybe consider a regrind of the cam and resurface of the lifters. That cam would probably work as a good core to grind something better suited for your application. I get that budget matters but maybe price it out.

If you're getting the parts for free, or, virtually so, sure. The wheels should work for both. Otherwise, save your money for a disc brake changeover where you will probably need to change the wheels depending one which brake setup you use.

Did you double check the bolts are the correct diameter for the flex plate? If they are smaller than the holes, that could have caused it as well. It seems very unusual all four ears would "just break".

That's what I tell everybody at shows and cruises. Those 66's do look sexy black.

Thanks i just checked , end play checked out fine . all four ears are broken off just inside the bolt holes .

I would be doing it standing up. Cam bearings don't see reciprocating wear, they see rotational. It has been my experience that crank bearings see far more wear than cam bearings. When I sell something and I want top dollar, I do NOT want it coming back to haunt me. I make the car as...

my Wife would love it! one slight addition-air horns, preferably from a train. Oops, I see them on the "running board", need 'em on the roof of the cab.

I ended up using a pro street box from leash for my fuses and relays. So small, it fits on the metal behind the driver's side kick panel and the vent still fits.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282280596725

I’m wondering how this setup is coming along. I’m interested in finding more about the electric steering option. Yours is the only thing I’ve seen so far. I’m about to send my car to a restoration shop for some fairly major work and would like to decide if electric power steering is an option...

I bet the cam bearing wear is half as much or less since it turns at half crank speed, and has a constant load. Crank bearings do much more work than cam bearings. You'll be fine doing it in the car, old bearings come out easily. Change the oil pump while you are in there with a new standard...

I use my timing light. It has an accurate tach on it.

Check the crankshaft end play. A worn thrust bearing is one reason that could happen.

If you do this and it's not clean enough for you. Just drive it around a few days and go do it again. It will be cleaner the next time. Also know the super clean will not be kind to aluminum, it will mark it up and etch it.

same here, first oil change small block 68 Camaro with headers. had to use a screwdriver but I was lucky it loosened it just enough to remove the whole (holey) filter.

Love your Dart. I would steer clear of air shocks for sure. I had them on a car in a previous life and they did make the car look cool for the time but the car rode like crap. Big old L60x15's on the back and every damn bump I hit especially turning the *** end wanted to come around.

They are local to me and do great work!

I had mine made and shipped to me at the Pre-Bidden cost of $220. I think it was from Driveshaft Specialist Home looks like they are around $400 now.

I’m not saying 60’s look, just the stupid way of doing it in the 60’s with air shocks. Keep in mind that when you rake a car like that, you mess up your front suspension geometry a bit. Tire wear, slow down the steering (oversteer I believe).

It should go for 3X the current price. It looks nicely done.