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Have been chasing my tail on my 69 Barracuda, 318, auto, have posted other questions. Last installed was a Pertronix Distributor with there Ignitor II module and there correct coil, [ no resistor, full power to the coil and dist, per there directions] with that I was able to have car start, but...

More wind!

That’s pretty close I’d say. Bounce it a few times front and back and at all corners and measure again. I’d bet it’s impossible to keep static measurements.

That's almost exactly what I did, but I made templates of the ports instead of using a gasket. It was a cheap manifold I had on hand, so I used it, while understanding it's not much (if any) better than a factory cast-iron one. Chances are good I'll swap it out for a Weiand 8002 I've got on the...

Heres the engine stand

@Dana

That's the exact same method I used, twice, on some old trucks, about 30 years ago or so. Maybe we learned about this from the same source! (Hot Rod mag, perhaps?) Regardless, I know the OP has a hoist, but I hate working over my head, so if thicker oil isn't an option, if it were up to me I'd...

Forget about the vacuum advance for now. Plug the damn port and get a base tune up in the poor thing. Then worry about vacuum advance.

I have a 66 273 HiPo block, crank and heads for sale. A little crusty but should clean up. Had to beat 2 pistons out and has some rust in a few of the bores. I measured the bore with dial veneers at 3.625, so looks like standard bore size. Asking $100, including the engine stand Hope someone is...

I used this stuff years ago when I did mine. Didn’t even know about it the static issue, but looks like they already had it covered. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX

i agree Rusty , the bolts are the bigger 7/16'' arp bolts that came with the plate . I have been running this setup for about 12 years now without problem . There must be a reason or maybe it's at the end of it's life .

IF this is a "I wonder what this would do" experiment, pull one bearing out of the cap. If std. size, get a set of .001" oversize. or plastigauge and see what clearance is. please disregard, just typing with out thinking.

Agree with most posts, increase CR, advance cam. But, at this point maybe consider a regrind of the cam and resurface of the lifters. That cam would probably work as a good core to grind something better suited for your application. I get that budget matters but maybe price it out.

If you're getting the parts for free, or, virtually so, sure. The wheels should work for both. Otherwise, save your money for a disc brake changeover where you will probably need to change the wheels depending one which brake setup you use.

Did you double check the bolts are the correct diameter for the flex plate? If they are smaller than the holes, that could have caused it as well. It seems very unusual all four ears would "just break".

That's what I tell everybody at shows and cruises. Those 66's do look sexy black.

Thanks i just checked , end play checked out fine . all four ears are broken off just inside the bolt holes .

I would be doing it standing up. Cam bearings don't see reciprocating wear, they see rotational. It has been my experience that crank bearings see far more wear than cam bearings. When I sell something and I want top dollar, I do NOT want it coming back to haunt me. I make the car as...

my Wife would love it! one slight addition-air horns, preferably from a train. Oops, I see them on the "running board", need 'em on the roof of the cab.

I ended up using a pro street box from leash for my fuses and relays. So small, it fits on the metal behind the driver's side kick panel and the vent still fits.