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No. I had my pinion CL 4 degrees below the engine/transmission centerline at rest. I figured for 4 degrees of axle wrap during acceleration. My issues came from having the engine/trans centerline 0 degrees with the drive shaft. For some reason, my clutch did NOT agree with that. I shimmed the...

No problem! Here is am image of what you want to look for. Bare in mind that the pinion angle needs to be the same as dive line angle UNDER LOAD. So 5-7 degrees lower is what MP Performance books say per RustyRatRod.

Everything is a new install. Motor and all. The conversion mounts do not place the engine at a perfect angle every time since the tolerance of these cars allowed for some errors. If the motor mounts are rotated ever so slightly, that can result in a large change at the tailshaft of the trans. I...

This is correct Rusty. I will add to this. Though the spec is 5-7, this wouldn't have made much of a difference until I put my foot in it. That 5-7 degrees is for the allowance of axle wrap to avoid trashing your ujoints. I think if I would have stepped on it enough with only a 2.4 degrees of...

Problem solved.... drive line angles were all jacked. Engine centerline and drive shaft had a 0 degree difference while the diff was 4 degrees down from the drive shaft. Shimmed the trans up about 5/8" and shudder is gone. Good thing I didn't yank the clutch.

Right now I have a Mcleod M360700 Pressure plate at 2750# and a M260620 double ceramic single sprung disc.

I am assuming you still need to yank the starter?

Its a big block car with 2" TTI headers.... Nothing is a 4 hour job.... If I swap the clutch out, I need one to hold 600+ HP. That perfection clutch will be toast in 1000 miles. Any other suggestions of clutches for high hp applications?

Also, I watched the video I posted. 99% of the noise that is heard is the hood shaking and the exhaust hitting the bottom of the car. The clutch doesn't make hardly any noise.

I'm not going to doubt you as you definitely have more experience than me, and you are likely correct because of said experience. However, I am going to ask for you to elaborate on your thought about why the fact that eliminating axle wrap essentially eliminates my original complaint isn't the...

This made a difference. I wedged a couple 2x4's between the snubber and the floor board and the shudder is virtually gone. What does this mean if my pinion angle is at -2* relative to the engine centerline?

I had the bottom end built in a machine shop and he did measure crank play. I do not have a recorded value, but he said that it was within spec. I trust my machinist quite a bit. Pretty stand up dude.

Well, that sucks. Pulling the trans out of this car is an absolute nightmare. Here is a video of how much it is shuddering. The shudder translates all the way to the wheels.

Here is what I started with. Sorry for the crappy representation, but its what I have to work with. All angles were read at the flange face both on the diff and the trans. Note: The 2.4* is POSITIVE 1* from the drive line angle. I threw some 6* shims at it to make it -5*. Didnt help, but...

Hello all, I am at wits end with an issue I have been experiencing for awhile, and I hope that I can tap into the wisdom from the experts here at FABO. Preferably, I do not want to redesign the car and throw a ton of new parts at it without being sure that we have found the culprit. There are a...

Who says I would want the aftermarket fuel injection either? you can get a motor/tranny/wiring harness + ecm/pcm for ~2k. All the aftermarket megasquirt and isn't really necessary for a stock build, or even a cammed build at that point. Or you can buy the intake for I am sure less than $400, and...

Im going to start an active list. I know this obviously isn't everything needed, but it's a good start. Everyone please chime in and add to this list. Only necessary things required to install a factory engine out of a pickup that has the computer and wiring. PARTS ARE WITHOUT THE PURCHASE OF...

The only thing I was unable to do is check piston to valve clearance. SUPER hard to accomplish an accurate measurement while the motor is still in the car. I am running a bit bigger valves, and I know I was cutting it close before with the closed chambered heads. I installed a set of 906 open...

Now I did in fact search through here to see what everyone is paying to install one of these babies in their A body, but failed to find a 100% clear answer. I have the ability to pick up a 5.7 hemi motor and tranny from a 05 ram for super cheap and I want to know if it's worth digging in to...

I did just this and everything worked out great. I had been looking for a good write up like that for awhile. They do a pretty good job explaining the geometry of your valve train. I sure do wish that we can have a compiled tech article on these forums. I would be more than happy to code one up.

Now I understand what you said, but knowing how to dial in the correct length is where im lost. Do I adjust the length and just determine the length as to how much the valve opens, or by how the rocker arm rides on the valve tip?

Lost my private messages when the forum switch over. Had a gentleman give me the full correct process to check the length on the pushrods. Anyone else here willing to chime in?

Right, I guess I need to word this a bit differently. When I put my pushrod length checker in, am I doing the process with the marker correctly? Also, I got word that the lkfter needs to be on the bottom side of the lobe and I make the pushrod larger until there is no play, them make it .020"...

Hard to tell without knowing if the misfire is random multiple or if it is dead cylinders. Hell it could be a vacuum leak on the carb throttle shaft for all we know. They are notorious for wearing out quick.

My 440 slipped into my 70 swinger like a glove. Tri-y headers and schumacher mounts. No problems at all.

Hello guys. Nice to see you guys still as active as ever. First off I would like to "warn" you guys that I am kind of new to valve train adjustment. From being an engineering student, I do know the terminology and can understand complicated instructions. I bought the set of cut to fit...

Thanks guys!!!! It is installed!! Just gotta finish opening up my aluminum water pump housing ports and find some steel head gaskets.

Well I guess I will hop on the phone and wait 45 minutes to talk to a tech......

Is it normal for a 3-bolt cam to not have that nipple coming out of the middle of it? Just a flat surface? Just making sure before I throw it in.

Will do!! Looks like I have a day off next week so hopefully I can get my spring height checker in and get the heads set up before that time comes. Should be able to get everything installed in a days time. Now on to some oil question. I work at a local parts store and if I am not mistaken...