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Hey , just did another small pick from a guy real close to where we're staying. 72 Duster stuff. Nice little haul. Don't know how I'll get it all home but I find a way.

Honestly, if you are going 8.75 just buy a C - body for cheap and cut it to your likings, equipped to your likings. Same with a Dana. You'll want upgraded axles and the 4.5 bolt pattern anyways.

A body rear ends are around,,but they are not plentiful . Keep looking and you should find one,,,,shop around ,,,if the price is too high,,,keep looking. I’m making my own housing,,,I’m cutting down a Dana I have,,,,,I already have everything,,,I just need to finish the cut and weld on the new...

spoiler, if you want one compete and new and with discs you'll be selling a kidney. personally i'd go dana. doctor diff can hook it up with a spec built piece. https://www.doctordiff.com/strange-60.html on a 8.75, if you're in a hustle mindset, you can grab housings and axles pretty easy...

That sounds like somethin I'd say. lol

If you are a bracket/index guy and tune for a dead hook on the worst surface you are likely to run on, won't need to change much to run on a good surface :) I might have a few pics back at the shop, but I won't be back until next week. Just made some room in my inbox... Grant

It’s just above the crank . Couldn’t resist …lol

Well they went ahead and paid out a split for todays race. He got 375.00 for todays race.

Hi everyone, I am in the process of converting my slant 6 Duster into a 440 big block and have been looking for options for rear end and there's not a lot of options on where to buy without selling a kidney. The car will be used for mostly street with occasional strip driving, motor is going to...

I believe they were. @toolmanmike will know.

The brackets were bead blasted and painted. The paint looks good but shows signs of install/removal. Alternator is not included, coil is not included.You get everything in the bag. Including the original lower alternator bolt, and the nicer one I used. I made the coil bracket, not sure what...

Yeah, it's just a no brainer. I even have the same dealio for my Ford T5 swap. I got a real NOS B&B scalloped pressure plate and a 10" disc with the T5 spline count. Perfect for a hot slant 6.

I’m not sure of that but in my world they ALL would have sticks.

Well that's definitely true, I know for a fact the 70-72 calipers can be used with a 73+ caliper bracket because the 11.75" caliper brackets weren't around for 70-72, they're like 76-79. But there's a pretty good chance I reused the pins I had too, I just can't remember because I did that swap...

That’s not a lot of gear for that tire diameter and that short stroke still pulls it.

Thank you

Well they are rained out for the day. It started coming down before Matt ran his second entry so both entries are still in. They are going to need a lot of luck to get this race finished as the weekend forecast isn’t pretty.

Might be worth looking for a 6.4 truck motor then. Seems like those are cheaper and if you are going to toss all the pistons/cam/etc. anyways, it might be worth it.

Oh and his "128 rule" works out to a 108 LSA for any of my slant six builds. That's what I would choose anyway.....either that or a 106. So even without him, I was right. Funny how that works.

Box class is usually referred to as top bulb racing because those running a delay box leave go Of the transbrake button on the top bulb. No box class is called bottom Bulb racing because that when you leave your foot off the brake pedal or transbrake button when not using a delay box.

a cost effective solution can be a /6 flywheel redrilled for the v8 crank pattern. i wouldn't recommend it for a high HP application, but for a driver it'll be fine. oh and the MU1525 clutch that @RustyRatRod linked is the cats *** for the small wheel. in fact i'm just about to put one into...

I’d have to see the statistics, cuz I don’t buy it.

Nice. Is this run in FAST? Is the Engle cam in post #13 what your using? Thanks

I don't knock his knowledge. At ALL. ....and I'm not taking pot shots. I'm just not suckin his balls. I know how to design and build an engine and I know how to tune. That's all I really need. My own mind is a dangerous enough place for me. I don't need to get into someone else's.

Doesn't really matter at this point, the spindle is chewed up. So regardless of what caused it, you'll need to make sure that the new inner wheel bearing can ride where it's supposed to and everything fits properly.

Thank you someone else in the group had told me that also I'm just trying to keep it like it is for now the flywheel cleaned up so I'll give it a shot

Think he's raced Mini's. I think his books are a good first step, overall if you follow his advice you generally gonna have decent results, problem is some take it as the final word in performance theory.

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