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:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Bearing bind or a nut that was loose and allowed the cone to spin on the spindle.

Bad for me. You know your **** out of luck when the national weather service talks about the street you live on. Major, Major flooding by my place in Tennessee. East Tn. rescues going on right now. Historic flooding 22 dead so far.

Won second round under 3x97 and it looks like the predicted rain moved in.

Yeah, I'd rather use all the later stuff

Using the later water pump, requires using the later timing chain cover and a later radiator that has low passenger and high drivers water plumbing.

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Hi FABO. Can anyone tell me what caused this deformation on the spindle bottom where the large bearing meets?

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Kitty would drive that beeotch right over the both of us. Then back up and do it again.

My wife would swear in court to that lol! Of course, she'd be throwing me under the bus right along with you so there is that.

Yes they did.

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11.4 comp W2 heads, flow 286 Indy intake 264/268 @ .050 Hughes SFT Ductile iron rockers 3.46” stroke BME aluminum rods 904 5600 stall 4.86 gear 2700 lbs

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I ain’t worried bout me, my family down in South Carolina and Tennessee, yep worried.

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There is a spec. while going back together with the torsion bars out, shocks off and the strut rods connected to the LCA, you adjust the strut rods until you get smooth and fluid motion through the arc of suspension travel then lock it down. If that makes sense.

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On a small block in these early a bodies you don't have a lot of room for a fan. Is going with the old cast iron water pump required to make it work? I really rather use the later water pump if at all possible

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325/50s

Can't believe it Fred , smoke alarm didn't go off. Better check the batteries !:eek:

1.29 60' is dang quick. Nice. What's your combo?

Toe outta whack will cause wheels to bind, raise/lower car, makes car difficult to roll. Just throwing it out there .

My butt dyno says i have a much larger cubic inch then 355” which is backed up by the 1.29 60’.