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It’s just above the crank . Couldn’t resist …lol

Well they went ahead and paid out a split for todays race. He got 375.00 for todays race.

I believe they were. @toolmanmike will know.

The brackets were bead blasted and painted. The paint looks good but shows signs of install/removal. Alternator is not included, coil is not included.You get everything in the bag. Including the original lower alternator bolt, and the nicer one I used. I made the coil bracket, not sure what...

Yeah, it's just a no brainer. I even have the same dealio for my Ford T5 swap. I got a real NOS B&B scalloped pressure plate and a 10" disc with the T5 spline count. Perfect for a hot slant 6.

I’m not sure of that but in my world they ALL would have sticks.

Well that's definitely true, I know for a fact the 70-72 calipers can be used with a 73+ caliper bracket because the 11.75" caliper brackets weren't around for 70-72, they're like 76-79. But there's a pretty good chance I reused the pins I had too, I just can't remember because I did that swap...

That’s not a lot of gear for that tire diameter and that short stroke still pulls it.

Thank you

Well they are rained out for the day. It started coming down before Matt ran his second entry so both entries are still in. They are going to need a lot of luck to get this race finished as the weekend forecast isn’t pretty.

Might be worth looking for a 6.4 truck motor then. Seems like those are cheaper and if you are going to toss all the pistons/cam/etc. anyways, it might be worth it.

Oh and his "128 rule" works out to a 108 LSA for any of my slant six builds. That's what I would choose anyway.....either that or a 106. So even without him, I was right. Funny how that works.

Box class is usually referred to as top bulb racing because those running a delay box leave go Of the transbrake button on the top bulb. No box class is called bottom Bulb racing because that when you leave your foot off the brake pedal or transbrake button when not using a delay box.

a cost effective solution can be a /6 flywheel redrilled for the v8 crank pattern. i wouldn't recommend it for a high HP application, but for a driver it'll be fine. oh and the MU1525 clutch that @RustyRatRod linked is the cats *** for the small wheel. in fact i'm just about to put one into...

I’d have to see the statistics, cuz I don’t buy it.

Nice. Is this run in FAST? Is the Engle cam in post #13 what your using? Thanks

I don't knock his knowledge. At ALL. ....and I'm not taking pot shots. I'm just not suckin his balls. I know how to design and build an engine and I know how to tune. That's all I really need. My own mind is a dangerous enough place for me. I don't need to get into someone else's.

Doesn't really matter at this point, the spindle is chewed up. So regardless of what caused it, you'll need to make sure that the new inner wheel bearing can ride where it's supposed to and everything fits properly.

Thank you someone else in the group had told me that also I'm just trying to keep it like it is for now the flywheel cleaned up so I'll give it a shot

Think he's raced Mini's. I think his books are a good first step, overall if you follow his advice you generally gonna have decent results, problem is some take it as the final word in performance theory.

14/32

fyi, if you go different bell you'll need to modify your Z-bar and attachment hardware along with the clutch fork (or buy a new one).

www.moparmuscleofcentralpa.com/history-of-the-pentastar.html "It was placed on the passenger side fender so it could be viewed by passers-by, a subtle method of getting the symbol ingrained in the public's mind: a nameplate has to be read, but a symbol is quickly recognizable without reading...

The wheel bearings were replaced but so far the seller in not saying why.

That's nice!

How tall of a tire do you run?

That's a valid argument. Thanks for the point!

Sold! Thank you Scott and FABO!

I would rather have both a gauge and a light.