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Hi All: I just posted the latest chapter to my component restoration series under the title "Bob's Component Resto, Chapter 37: The Defroster Hoses". You can find it under "Member Restorations" in the forums section. I've come up with an affordable solution to replacing those old rotten factory...

Someone is always worse off than you and me, so I’ve decided to stop whining, push as hard as I can and empathize with those truly worse off than me.

Hey Pittsburgh, what do you think of those Trickflows? The Mopar ones.

NICE------AND-----SUBTLE!!!

Hello MoBros and MoSis'. I trust all is well with you and that you've been sleeping well of late. If not, I'd like to present my latest component resto chapter: the defroster hoses. Guaranteed to put you to sleep! So let's get right into it. Is there a single member of the Mopar...

Weather Channel now should say "Trash programming crying about climate change"

Hi I received an email if i entered my Vin Number i could get more info about my Dart ,now i cant find it .Any help .Thanks

The bypass valve is in the oil pump.

Fords, have you seen their connecting rods lol

I'd buy them.

I like to generally see 1 to 1 1/2 thread below the rocker. All the adjusters I use have a recessed area in the adjuster and that needs to line up with the oiling in rockers, If the pushrod is too long or short the rockers can't oil and that will burn up the top end in short order!

My son needs two of these center caps. They are for a 77 New Yorker. I think some of the 70s Dodge trucks also use the same cap. Thanks.

I had a 380zx. I really liked that car but was underpowered

KH

It just so happens that the GM 6.0L LS2 was a stout engine that had a higher ratio of exhaust flow. It really helped that engine breathe and gave increased flexibility on cam design.

You used the same steering wheel as I did on my Duster.

All I know is I'm just not anal enough to really care!! I stopped crunching numbers and such way back in the late 90's! :poke:

Part # 2883575 new in box. $200 includes shipping with tracking and insurance

Dust gets inside and does this. Remove, gently clean it, then plastic polish on the outside only. The inside just needs gently cleaned. The inside isn't scratched unless you do it cleaning it.

And all small block cams were and are single bolt. Never seen one fail.

I have my timer set up with adjustable stops on the all thread so it has a few inches of free play Going Down and does not slow anything down until the last 1 inch of upward travel when the clutch disc starts to make contact. This is why they have you check the clutch disc to flywheel...

Are those rods made in the US? Any idea what the rod weight is? How much would shipping be to 03278? Thanks!

I'm out

You said impregnated.

Well, as an engineer, I don't like to assume anything "back in the day." I know the physics didn't change but I wasn't there so I hesitate to say for sure what someone was thinking for the design. We're all familiar with the "3-bolt" cams vs 1-bolt. The 3-bolts were used on the more radical...

Here is an updated picture. I opened the hardware pkg. Should be another pkg here...just need to locate.

I’m building a 273 atm. ‘60 over L222’s Crane Z268-2 (268/276-459/480),comp 901’s, super locks, 318 4V intake,1406 carb, cometic 4.04 bore’40 gaskets and a few other goodies, should be a nice putt putt engine. Gives my W2/410 12+ comp rocket a rest, and something for the wife to drive.