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Someone had a pair of those caps up for sale earlier this year.

This was another well put on show and swap meet. There were a a great number of participants showing some awesome cars. The swap meet vendors were down just a little, but there were plenty of deals to be made.

Not beat the OP, but the BFH should be reserved for other things. Just making light of the situation, not trying to rag on anyone.

The guides were machined correctly for the seals and we added the correct springs, keepers and retainers. Other than freshening up the heads over the years, the seals have done their job @pittsburghracer can probably put his suggestion.

I've had to repair those multi colored tree roots when crews either ignore the locates, or don't bother to call to get things located. Either way, it can get expensive for whoever dug them up.

OMM knows of what he speaks, I too have had the same problem on my SBM heads. My machinist fixed the problem that I should have had corrected before I assembled the heads.

PBR, I agree about dipping the Boli in the sauce. Sometimes I like my Marinara sauce and other times it's my Alfredo sauce, I make my own and freeze it in one serving packages.

If you are unsure of the piston deck height, get an inexpensive bore scope (Harbor Freight) and take a look with a piston at the top of the bore.

If the noise sounds tinny, I would suspect that the sealer between the exterior sheet metal and the underside support bracing has separated. If the sealant has turned loose, try this experiment, fold a couple of pieces of cardboard and put it between the bracing and the sheet metal. If the noise...

If the car only sees the strip occasionally, I don't think you will notice the loss. I thought you might be planning a race only setup.

Tell us more about what "body" you are looking for.

If you are going to run a 4500 dominator style carburetor, it might be better to get the 4500 intake. You maybe leaving HP on the table with the 4150 intake.

I wish I was closer also, it's time to update the paint job on my bracket car.

Those were actually repackaged "Walker" clamps. I used to sell both at a parts store I managed years ago. If you put them side by side you couldn't tell the difference. The actual difference was the Mopar boxed clamps were about a dollar more expensive.

Dang Mark, you are on a roll today you've posted 6 times in the last 20 minutes.

I was trying to be nice!!!

@ProjectBazza Bazza, kind of slow on the uptake this morning?

The 4.56 ratio will get tiring after a while, my suggestion would be a 3.55, 3.73 or possibly 3.91 ratio. The 4.56 will have you turning really high RPM's for just a cruiser type car. I've run 3.55 and 3.73 ratios on the street and they are a real kick in the pants.

I went in Friday to have my truck serviced and to have the oil and filter changed. The shop is owned by a local family and has been in business for almost 40 years and has a stellar reputation in the community. There had been changes of people that write up the service tickets. I told the young...

You say it was checked at speed, which is fine and probably it was only a few trips. Just think about how things are going to fatigue when it's driven for long periods of time at highway speeds. My 80's Pro Stock hood scoop was bonded and riveted to my glass hood. After about a year of sporadic...

Depending upon the age of the needles and seats, the Viton tip of the needle may have a slight groove in it. This can cause fuel to seep by and over fill the bowl, my suggestion would be to pick up a pair and change them out.

Casting defects are much more common that you might think, especially with light weight metals. Remember the Barry Grant fiasco about porosity issues with the early Demon carburetors.

I learned that lesson many years back, the door to my shop had a regular glass window in it. Late one night I heard breaking glass, went out to see the glass on the outside of the door. I heard the air hose flopping around when I got to the door. The end of the hose beat the crap out of my brand...

In my opinion, you will spend much more time and energy trying to change the bearings with the engine "in" the car. Pulling the engine isn't "that" hard and besides, once the engine is out and on a stand it's "much" easier to look it over to see if there are any other problems.

Bite the bullet like I did and buy the 1/2" Medice spacers, that way if you make changes later you have plenty of clearance. My situation was I had my valve covers and intake powder coated and didn't trial fit them before hand. The valve covers wouldn't seal without grinding on the coating...

Want some candy little boy?

I don't believe that A56 meant anything other than to compliment replicaracer43 on how Scott's car turned out. No one needs to rehash any of the history, it's over and done with and it needs to be left there.

Were the drag radials a bit "sketchy" in the wet weather, were you button holed to the seat? LMAO

@YY1, those are known as a wheel lift.

The link to the push rods is for ball and ball push rods, not cup and ball. You can get custom length push rods if you want to pay that kind of money. Go to B3 engineering and talk to them about push rod geometry.