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I’m actually going to get that drum off here in an hour and start checking it. I will read this a couple more times when I get home and out in the shop. Thank you sir. Over the years I got ahold of a 340. Originally a slant 6 car but I want to start here at the rear and work my way up. It’ll be...

Pix or it didn’t happen!

Good eye.

I was an American Corporal

Are YOU gonna shorten it, or have it done? If your having it done, straightening the housing is definitely part of the process.

Yessir It was worth the wait

Install on hold, waiting for an aluminum flywheel to arrive, also swapped 3.91 gears for 4.10. Might as well make full use of the OD feature of GV, lol.

What??? you got a new to you truck?

Welcome to the site. There's a lot of 66 Valiant owners here that would love to help. Let me call a couple I know. @memike and @66340SEDAN

Damn, a very concise answer I was an English major

That was just a best guess on my part, since standard cam plates seem to be thicker than tensioner plates... who knows! :)

I just purchased 1966 Plymouth, Valiant 200. She needs a little work and I watch many u-tube videos learning how to fix stuff. I have enjoyed working on Mopars over the years but this is my first ever "do it all myself" wrenching. I am retired, live in the Gold Country, enjoy car shows and...

I need to remove my quarter window trim and in order to do so, the felt needs to come out so I can access the screws. Is there a trick to this? I'm trying to keep from bending anything and breaking (any more) tabs, but it seems counter intuitive. Looks easy to pop in, but kinda a pain to get out.

It sounds like you got the drum off since you're able to turn and count. You can check for housing bend a couple of ways. First, use a straightedge along the axle tube, both along the top (er, bottom--trucks are spring-over) and along the back. If it lays flat as you move it side-to-side...

IANAL* but it's probably a civil matter and the po-po don't wanna get involved. *although i have played one on tv

Factory no but yes on aftermarket but it should have adapter with it.

name of the rally? (asking for a friend)

Looking for good pair of 1968 Dart GT/GTS front door panels in GC - no speaker holes please. Prefer straight & black Dont necessarily need the diamond insert Greg

all of the standard non-roller/magnum/anything with a tensioner ones i've see are the shorty bolts with the cross hatched heads. but given ma mopar's proclivity of "we're out of this! that's okay we'll just use these!" anything is possible.

Ok gang. Two days of mad scrambling and a great assist from our very own @Scott_ 69HemiDart Truck-quest has concluded. Thanks for the all the advice and assistance guys

Good to hear parts and cars are being used.

Yes, 67-76 A-body...

Why can't he be arrested at the Garlits show? Someone got a picture of him and her?

#12 pole .. #12 and #22 race

I do hope to get to this soon~ waiting on some anaroebic sealer, hope all goes well with the engine

So it sounds like it’s not a big deal. I am going to shorten it to A body specs. I’m just getting back into this and more than a bit rusty.

I should add, you can pretty much find any size of t-bar you want at a large swap meet.

Octopus?

I did get a set of 894-895 through Brads nos last month it was under p5249150 don t know if they had more than 1 set

I put in .890s as an upgrade to the .870s in my 67. This incremental change is probably only worth doing if you already have the front end apart for a refresh. However, it is a good upgrade that helps control dive and does not result in an overly stiff ride. It is really the sway bar that...