Search results for query: 318 cam

I had a 340 resto cam in my 318 and did not like it so I swapped it out with a Comp Cam XE250. Nice mild street cam real nice torque down low. If your cam is hydraulic make sure your oil has zinc.

then you spray it 460 hp 500 lbft

Oldie but goody! Magnum I see. I saved that one. It's a good recipe.

No kiddin! He's da man!

LISTEN to GTX John!! He's been going very fast for 50 years, and still is. If you want to stroke a 318, a 360 crank is NOT the way I would do it. For really high performance application, get a 4" all forged kit FOR a 318. For budget street use, cast crank kit with hyper pistons would be fine...

I'm currently building a mild 318 to replace a Slant 6 in my 1974 Plymouth Valiant, 4-door, which I got really cheap. After I picked up the 318, a friend mentioned the 360 as a better alternative, dollar VS output. As I have a 7 1/4 rear end, I don't want to blow up the rearend. BUT, the costs...

The specs on the cam indicate improving low end torque and overall performance, win win for a low compression 318. I now several guys using the Whiplash, one with a 360 and another with a 400, both said the cam made the low compression engines into a different beast.

looking for low-ish lift & duration for a 318 project. anybody have something puny & weak collecting dust on the shelf? maybe a piece for a long abandoned project or you decided to go with something bigger? would love a solid lifter, but hydro is the more likely play. if you're within...

I’m pretty new to this, and can’t logic myself an explanation. 1974 318, some cylinder wear, nothing terrible 1971 stock heads with a fresh valve job and springs were tested New lifters Double roller timing set Unknown cam, either stock or very mild, no advance TDC confirmed, as well as cam...

Almost felt like a personal attack.. my 318 has P295/65-15s :)

You missed my point, your saying your figuring around 328 at crank, I'm saying the 5.9l with a bit more cam got 350 hp to me that's pretty close to each other.

Partly because roller cam retrofit to a non roller cam block is more expensive. Solid roller will be most expensive. It all depends what you have planned for the car. If I was using a 318, I would use a hydraulic roller cam. If you use your 86 block, just buy a cam for that and stock replacement...

Yes, 68 and 69 switched to hydraulic cam like the new 318 that was released in 68. The 318 LA replace the 318A which was the Poly 318. The old Poly had solid lifters as well.

the Moho 440 is bretty much ready... it has a cam , intake and a bunch of new parts... i should get the heads from the machine shop end of this week. definitly a cool motor ...If i sell this engine i can probably fund the whole DUSTER build incl the engine (if i use the 318 )

It's really a 318 with a 340 cam and a Thermoquad, but them chebby guys will never know. taillights is all they will see.

I bought the exhaust for the 318 that's in it now, been running it for years. Haven't even assembled the 416 yet and just wondering if I should run a different cam, I could redo the exhaust but I'd like to at least drive it first so I have some kind of baseline. I do appreciate the advice, the...

It really comes down to the heads, 318 vs 360 vs 5.2/5.9 magnum stock head to make 300 hp A magnum basic does that stock, 360 needs a mild cam and 318 needs a fair amount of cam.

It sounds like you could build it as an LA but as cheap as LA 318's are, why bother. You can find LA Teens for $100 or less. Even better yet would be a Magnum with a roller cam. Just sayin.

If running similar heads a 318 ain't gonna need 21 more cam degrees to turn higher rpm. You look at that 400 hp magnum headed 318, go a 230 cam making peak power at 6200 rpm a similar cam 5.9l magnum gonna be more like 5400-5500 rpm.

off the cuff, something like a factory 340 converter would be fine so what 22~2500 (that would be for a low end converter). i mean considering a stock 318 converter is like, negative stall (i'm kidding it's probably 1800) i'd think anything 2+ would be an improvement. now if you're talking high...

Use the 273 with the 318 heads and the "67" 273 4 barrel intake. You need the 318 heads to use the 66 up intake manifold. You can always mill the 318 heads to get the compression you want. Run the Commando exhaust or clone it. Easy to get 265 hp out of a 273 with 2 barrel pistons, a small...

Pretty spot on, however I'm not sure about stock 318 having 150 untapped. Those heads suuuuuck.

Yes just watch how terrible a low cr 318 with factory stall and highway gears goes. With mild cam, 272/272, Lift .454/.454 110 IC 62*, mild porting, 4bbl and duals. Look at all the time spent under 3,000 rpm, felt like forever. (Sarcasm)

I have a set on a 340 and they work fine. No grinding. Small cam/springs. I also have a set of Comp Cams Magnum rockers (not 5.9/5.2 Magnum) on a 318. They were $600 more than the 273’s. That’s a good looking cam. I have always liked my cams in that neighborhood. My 73 Duster has a 222 @.050...

How did you come up with a 75 HP loss?

318 Dyno Pull Here is a close to stock (sort of) 318 Magnum with a fresh top end and something like a 340 cam grind. .274 on 114 lobe centers. 253 Wheel Horse Power Add 75 HP for driveline loss. 253 + 75 = "328 HP" at crankshaft They are running 600 cfm Edelbrock. Pretty darn good...

as above run what you have and build as you can afford a better motor. if you can't find a reasonably priced 360 in your area to add a 4" stroker kit to (for 408") then a cheap 318 with the same 4" stroke doesn't give up much at 390". add ally heads of your choice/budget along with cam, inlet...

Does anyone know how far down a 1972 318 pistons are? In a book I have it states in 1972-1981 they are .056 down from the top of the bore but with those calculations in the Diamond racing compression calculator it gives about 8.5 to one compression but our factory manuals state 8.2 compression...

How much can I bore the 318 to? I know it won’t be much but if I can get into the 330 CI range I’ll be happy