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Yessir It was worth the wait

Install on hold, waiting for an aluminum flywheel to arrive, also swapped 3.91 gears for 4.10. Might as well make full use of the OD feature of GV, lol.

What??? you got a new to you truck?

Welcome to the site. There's a lot of 66 Valiant owners here that would love to help. Let me call a couple I know. @memike and @66340SEDAN

Damn, a very concise answer I was an English major

That was just a best guess on my part, since standard cam plates seem to be thicker than tensioner plates... who knows! :)

I just purchased 1966 Plymouth, Valiant 200. She needs a little work and I watch many u-tube videos learning how to fix stuff. I have enjoyed working on Mopars over the years but this is my first ever "do it all myself" wrenching. I am retired, live in the Gold Country, enjoy car shows and...

I need to remove my quarter window trim and in order to do so, the felt needs to come out so I can access the screws. Is there a trick to this? I'm trying to keep from bending anything and breaking (any more) tabs, but it seems counter intuitive. Looks easy to pop in, but kinda a pain to get out.

It sounds like you got the drum off since you're able to turn and count. You can check for housing bend a couple of ways. First, use a straightedge along the axle tube, both along the top (er, bottom--trucks are spring-over) and along the back. If it lays flat as you move it side-to-side...

IANAL* but it's probably a civil matter and the po-po don't wanna get involved. *although i have played one on tv

Factory no but yes on aftermarket but it should have adapter with it.

name of the rally? (asking for a friend)

Looking for good pair of 1968 Dart GT/GTS front door panels in GC - no speaker holes please. Prefer straight & black Dont necessarily need the diamond insert Greg

all of the standard non-roller/magnum/anything with a tensioner ones i've see are the shorty bolts with the cross hatched heads. but given ma mopar's proclivity of "we're out of this! that's okay we'll just use these!" anything is possible.

Ok gang. Two days of mad scrambling and a great assist from our very own @Scott_ 69HemiDart Truck-quest has concluded. Thanks for the all the advice and assistance guys

Good to hear parts and cars are being used.

Yes, 67-76 A-body...

Why can't he be arrested at the Garlits show? Someone got a picture of him and her?

#12 pole .. #12 and #22 race

I do hope to get to this soon~ waiting on some anaroebic sealer, hope all goes well with the engine

So it sounds like it’s not a big deal. I am going to shorten it to A body specs. I’m just getting back into this and more than a bit rusty.

I should add, you can pretty much find any size of t-bar you want at a large swap meet.

Octopus?

I did get a set of 894-895 through Brads nos last month it was under p5249150 don t know if they had more than 1 set

I put in .890s as an upgrade to the .870s in my 67. This incremental change is probably only worth doing if you already have the front end apart for a refresh. However, it is a good upgrade that helps control dive and does not result in an overly stiff ride. It is really the sway bar that...

I have seen a few people who join up and actually sign up for Gold very soon after - if not the same day - - mainly over at FBBO. It made me wonder a while back if people feel pressured to chip in......that is not the case or the intention. Most people who buy Gold do it to enjoy the benefits...

Nah it is a clone. He bought a whole pole barn of mopar stuff. 2 Daytona clones, a 64 Dodge altered wheelbase car and tons of parts. I got a couple things and going back next weekend

67-76 I wanna say. Came from a 70 dash.

...(or Poly, for that matter) with long nose cam and a fuel pump eccentric. Bottom is for Magnum motors with short nose cam and no eccentric. As for the cam plate bolts, I *believe* the longer black ones are for a standard thrust plate and the shorter gray ones are for when you're using a tensioner.

chances are good it's bent somewhat , i never seen one that wasn't .