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Thanks, that's not too far for me.

Looking for quality established Mopar engine builder in the southeast. Must have dyno capability. I'm located near Nashville, TN, and don't mind traveling to drop off and pickup. Just not physically up to traveling all the way up to the northeast of the country. Thanks!

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No sir I haven’t convinced myself of anything other than replacing the hydraulic roller with a solid roller. I’m hoping I can just re-use the shaft and rockers. Then purchase the cam, lifters, and correct length pushrods.

It was a technical note for their lifters 843-16. I've since seen other lifters that don't have that note like the 828-16. Most of my experience is from BBC and SBC. My rockers are Comp Ultra Pro Magnums.

Comp says must convert to a oil through pushrod system. What exactly am I looking at to make this conversion? 408 small block non-magnum block. Thanks!

I found them bagged up! It's a miracle! Thanks!

I guess that would help. 68 Valiant 2 door sedan.

I misplaced mine during the restoration process. Are they sheet metal type screws or machine screws? Anyone know what size? Same for the sun visors? Thanks!

93-94. Once it would finally hook, it was pulling really hard.

I appreciate all the input folks. I wanted to send pics of the valvetrain, but the shop had already put the lash caps back on and buttoned everything up. Made 5 1/8th mile easy passes shifting at 6400, and it never missed a beat. 7.70’s spinning all the way through 1st and half the way through...

Well, we tried looking at the sweep without the lash caps and it was way off. I not swift on Mopar engines, but it appeared the have a curved metal piece under the shaft, where the shaft fasteners go, that altered the angle of the shaft. I had to make a decision on this thing. We were getting...

So is it possible I could take a look at the roller swipe and if needed, go to a shorter pushrod?

Thanks! This is my first thing.

The engine sat on the stand for some time. I turned it over and primed. I guess anything is possible. Crap.

Was there a pushrod length change to make it work?

It was a mix of intake and exhaust.

I read the info at B3 again. I know it takes a lot of expertise to get the geometry right. That’s why I had a Mopar engine builder do my engine. It was not a budget build. I’m hoping someone can give me some scenarios of what I’m facing here.

I've built several small and big block chevy engines, with never a problem. I had Mike build it for me, due to never putting together a Mopar engine, and getting the valve train geometry right was a big priority for me. Can you tell me a little about what it would take to rectify? I just...

First time with an engine with lash caps. 360/408 hydraulic roller. This is an engine that was built by Mike at at MRL Performance. He broke the engine in and tuned it on his dyno. The engine sat on my stand for maybe less than a year. I occasionally primed it, turning it 90 degrees at a time...

Dang. I was surprised when mine fit. I hear ya on the car building thing. Mine is dollaring me do death to get it finished. I started out to just fix a few things and do a budget paint deal. Ended up stripping it down to bare metal and have damn near done a full restoration. I could have bought...

I like those firecore wires. I was going to make make up a set myself. He asked me what my combo was, and he had the wire lengths in a data base. They fit perfect!

I’ve made some progress too.

Looks good. I've been following your build on Facebook. Car is looking great! I'm trying to catch up with you.

Thanks, been a long 4 year project, finally wrapping it up.

This may be exactly right. When I was removing the old 48 year old mount from the crossmember, it fit so tight, I had to work to get that thing out. The new poly just dropped right in. I'm going to try this! Thanks! I appreciate all the help. I'm new to Mopar stuff. Man, have I had to learn alot.

I see regulators mounted on the firewall on street cars, but if you drag race it, the tech guy will gig you for it. Rules wize, it can't be on the firewall incase you lose a flexplate or flywheel, it would take out the regulator and fuel line causing a fire. Plus, it has to be shielded where the...

That's the new mount I put in. It just seems that the little 5/16" stud wouldn't secure it very well to the crossmember. The mount isn't even snug in the crossmember. The mount itself is secure to the transmission. It looks like the little stud is the only thing holding it in.

Like off of a later Duster? Is this a spool type? I can see where the captured bolt would be a stronger design. Is it just a bolt in swap? Here's the Valiant it's going in. 543 hp with a 150 shot. I may be overthinking this, but the more I look at, leaving off a transbrake at about 4000 rpm...

Installing my 408 and 727 w/transbrake in my '68 Valliant. The transmission mount looks to be held in the crossmember with just a small 5/16" stud inside the mount to the crossmember, held with a nut. This just does not seem to be a very stout setup. The poly mount does not even fit snug into...