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Fixed now.

273 from my 67 cuda. Ran great but I upgraded to a 340. Local pickup only. 200 bucks

Dang that is a sweet ride!

Yup, I paid 400 for a case, then 75.00 bucks for sbp axles, another 500 into a 3:55 suregrip pig that was rebuilt. Then drums/brakes, bearings, etc. The axles were about the only decent deal I got. But after putting in the 340, I needed better than the 71/4 rear. After reading through this...

Are these prices you have paid recently? 250 for an 8 3/4 with 3:23 gears..that must have been a long time ago, and probably not an A body axle. But if it was, you got an amazing deal.

Its funny, I'm feeling the same way. I restored an 87 jeep yj this past winter and think I'll have more fun tooling around in it with the top and doors off than driving around in my 67 barracuda. I have maybe 4k into the jeep and 25k into the cuda lol..its crazy but yea..

Sadly I see so many A bodies in garages covered in crap just wasting away. Yet the owners won't part with them or parts. It seems like they have had them for years but are now not able to either physically work on them, or afford to work on them, but won't part ways. My brother has a 68 formula...

Never heard of that but the logic sounds reasonable.

My comment was really based on the cheap fan issue and the fact that he is still using it and no more cooling problems. Count how many people in this thread say to pitch the "bad" fan. I guess I'm tired of hearing stuff like that and how much better the stock 4 blade mechanical fan was and...

its not bullshit if the wrong gasket was used: He took the heads off and found that whoever build the engine put a gasket on that was blocking a coolant passage, see pictures. Post 111

Overall great thread for cooling issues. Glad the OP got it sorted out. It is funny about all the comments about the "bad" electric fan. Its like everyone who said it was bad missed the part where at speed, it still overheated. And then it turns out to be a bad head gasket install blocking water...

Good old Cars and Zebras on youtube. I have watched all of them. Funny they call them stock cars when really they are allowed to change rear end gears and compression and more. Love the 340's though, they kick ***!

I say why not 2. Both my hoses were sucked shut after shutting off the car and letting it sit for a couple days. You will see my other post on this thread. Even if the top hose spring does nothing, I'd rather have it than not.

I just experienced thi9s for the first time. I did a few laps at the track then trailer the car. 2 days later I go open the hood and see that both my upper and lower hoses are sucked shut....Its never done this before. I opened the radiator cap and the vacuum went away and the hoses opened. I...

Top shelf Duster, nice! You have a ton of parts! That second floor must be strong.

Spal 30100400 amp draw is what I googled and yes, 9 amps is it. So it doesn't see strong enough to do the job. Too bad, it got good reviews. My radiator is right against the support so no movement there. I have the trans cooler on the front side of the radiator so I cant really do a pusher style...

Ah bummer, that one won't fit. Yours is 3 7/16" thick, and I have 3 1/8" max distance from radiator before hitting the pulley screws. That one is 10 blades as well... Ok, well, I'll keep looking for a thinner one that pulls more amps, thx!

Totally agree with you. If I can stuff a bigger and better fan in there, thats where I'll start.

Thats cool, I posted to myself, lol.

But....I'm not saying you're wrong, and that you are probably right. My fan may very well be undersized for my application.

That does look good. I wonder that when its connected to the radiator hose, but not running, does it allow fluid to run right through it? I know some electric fuel pumps will do that, if you want to hook one up in line with a mechanical for easier starts, but not all of them do it.

Actually, I'm probably wrong on the 15 minutes to cool. After a lap, my car sometimes didnt even reach 190 and the fan never came on, its just the hot lapping that heats it up. Between doing the run, then sitting in the lane waiting to run again it just ends up being a while. Thats where you can...

Oh no, its not every pass. its just when I hot lap it 3 times in a row, lol. The cooling system works fine when I drive it on the road. It seems like its always a hot day with full sun when I'm racing too which doesn't help it cool quick. I have a good big 2 row aluminum radiator and a fancy...

Agreed.

I should add in, the flow like you mentioned, needs to go through the radiator as well as the motor to get any cooling done.

That is a good point, does driving water through where the heater hoses would be circulate through the block and heads....just don't know. Like I just mentioned in another post, I could do an electric water pump but it just seems like with a little creativity I could get the same results much...

I'm not sure where you are going with the pulley sizes. The car stays at 190 with normal driving. I just need better cooling between laps. I assume you are getting at over driving the water pump to cool better? But in between laps I'd rather the car turned off.

True, it would be easy enough to do but then the money that was spent on the serpentine setup would be partly a waste. I worked on this car all winter and finished up a couple months ago but only made it to the track twice. The reason is front end vibrations that I havent figured out. I have...

Ah ok, so the small fitting on the water pump, and the fitting on the intake manifold I take it you guys mean. That bypass hose...is that really needed if I dont have heat? I see so many opinions on that, its hard to know.

It could take time before leaking. Some long hot rides, or laps down the track could do it. I had all sorts of issues, tried with and without sealer. I finally went with no gasket at all. I just used permatex "The Right Stuff". I ripped down the 1/4 mile track 7 times in 2 hours. The motor got...