Search results for query: *

Yeah if it's in good condition and has a regulator then I don't see why not. Standard price currently you're lookin at almost $400 after shipping for a brand new one

I'd first try to get some idea of what shape it's in and how old it is. If it's fairly new, not abused (i.e. in good shape and works), AND has a regulator, I'd say thats a good price. Otherwise I'd shy away

Just a side note, I talked to my buddy's dad, a welder for a truck shop in the area. He's gonna see about getting me a tank and some CO2/argon mix at their business rate (he's fairly close to the owner so he's allowed to do that)

LOL I was gonna try one for a couple weeks, the HF mig125. I was gonna learn to weld for a couple weeks, find a "problem" with it, and send it back for a refund, but I didn't even get that far. For starters, the spool of cheap wire that came with it was all rusty and I had to dig at it to get it...

Oh well in that case we seem to be in agreement (namely around here, people selling their HF cheapy units at retail price or more)

Been a while since I've posted, been busy with work, but after all things considered I decided to give the Eastwood 135 a try I know the general consensus was "get a Lincoln or Miller unit" and "go with 220v only", but here's why I went with it: The cyber monday deal gave it free...

The champion that's sized for the A-bodies (CC526) is 22". Is the 26" for better cooling, or just so it fits the fan setup better?

Just got back from checking out the axle, and I got a long story and a short story. Long story: I meet up with the guy, an old timer with a cane, definitely had someone else load it up in his truck (although luckily it's a lot lighter than I thought it'd be, was able to handle it myself)...

Funny enough, I'm seeing a listing for a 8.75" from a 69 Newport (C body if I'm correct) with a 489 piece in it 1969 Chrysler Newport Convertible ~ 8 3/4 ~ Rearend - No: 2881489 if nothing else, maybe a backup axle?

This deal I'm checking out sunday is for a COMPLETE axle, minus drums & backing plates. Housing, axles, & 3rd member w/ open 3.23. Just gotta make sure it's proper width and not just a B or E axle mislabeled as an A

I think I remember the bit about the exploder axle, I was just biding my time and holding off from getting to the axle til I needed it, waiting to see if I could get a reasonable 8.75". The a-body housing is the only thing that's hard to find, the rest is a dime a dozen if I scour craigslist for...

Got a thread already on that?

Yeah only spirited drives here, plan on staying under that 500hp mark. I do plan on a sure grip no doubt, and did plan on 3.55 gears, but I guess I can see how quick it'll wind up on 3.23

Well I'll talk to the guy saturday before I go up and get it, ask if it's the 741 case. If it is, and I REALLY decide on a 489, then I can make a trade somewhere for a 489. Funny enough, somebody has a 489 + 3.23 gear for $200. Seems that anything not A-body specific is relatively cheap around...

In the article Dustin linked: "The two Sure Grip types can be interchanged between the carriers if the matching differential axle bearings are retained. The outside diameter of the cups are the same between the '741'/'742' and the '489'; the inner cone differs. " So what I'm drawing from that...

I was led to believe the early axles had the 741 and at some point after the late 60s switched entirely to the 489. What exactly is the difference between the two?

I'm looking at a 8-3/4" for $400, and I wanna be sure it's really for an A body. The 489 3rd member is the later model unit, right?

Question: on an A body 8-3/4" housing, what's the measurement from flange to flange?

Does that include a deposit on the tank? Idk how it is with welding gas but with many other things the bottle or tank costs a deposit

Yeah I know a few people with arc units, but mostly along the lines of fixing horsr trailers and fixing tractor parts (my friend has an arc welder but the house he moved into isn't wired for 240). Looking for something than can do autobody/sheet metal, and some heavier stuff too if possible

Liking this eastwood 135, decent price and high reviews. Only conflict I can see is someone told me to go with a "name brand" welder

I'm kinda putting the budget for the welder itself around $600, because yeah like you said tanks and fill ups cost too. Someone linked one "on sale" at over $1000, and for sure that one is off the list. Also it has to be 120V, no 240 hookups here

I found this guy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFNZ74/?tag=fabo03-20 I can't see getting a full $800+ setup, a bit outta my price range yet. Plus being able to use it on a standard 110/120 outlet is priceless

Cleanup isn't a concern for me, I just don't wanna go a route that I ultimately can't use for my means. As far as autobody or sheet metal, I've heard more cons than pros, and wasn't sure whether that was honest reviews or just naysayers. I did get a Harbor Freight cheapy 125a flux to try out...

What's the difficulty of flux vs gas? Remember that I don't have any prior welding experience to draw from

Like the title says, I'm new to welding and gonna need to get A LOT of practice in before I do any autobody work, so I'll be looking for a welder soon. I did a little research, and got the impression that: MIG and TIG are the most widely used, but TIG is supposed to be more difficult MIG boils...

OK so update on the crankshaft, I got it outta the tank, sprayed it down with diluted vinegar (neutralize the soda), and after drying off gave it a full wipedown with lacquer thinner (get off the gunk left behind by electrolysis), then gave it an oil coat. Here's before going in the tank...

Just to clarify, if my last post wasn't clear: IF this crank can't be saved, or if it ends up costing more than a brand new cast crank, I'll just toss it and buy the cast crank. I DO NOT plan to buy a forged crank, I was only linking that as a comparison, to give an idea of what value that...

Yeah I know that for a street engine a cast crank will do and about half the price, I just first wanna see if this one can be saved, and if it's still cheaper than buying a new one. I got it in an electrolysis bath right now to pull off as much rust as is safely possible Rust removal by electrolysis

Clearly a brand new forged crank can be found, but looking in the $800 range