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Sorry, ain't gonna argue with you any more, you know it all!

Yeah, I get it. But at the strip, I can run with the big blocks.

I have tti's, 904, and an ebay $79 starter has worked with no mods for 6 years, even had room to wrap it with a summit heat shield blanket.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE big block mopars, but if it's just a street car, a 4" stroke small block will give you plenty of torque and fits easy. A lot less work, jus' sayin'.

I will be there checking the cars out, Dart goes racing Friday night and stays home saturday..I'll look for you Higgs

273 pan won't fit 360, mains are bigger on 360 and pan has bigger rear gasket/seal radius

I have the 1.5's and they have been good. To do it over I would have gotten the 1.6 rockers. Geometry has to be set up but it isn't bad. They also have shims for under the shafts and for between the rockers and hold downs, I would get an assortment.

Comp has a solid lifter with a laser-drilled hole to oil the face of the lifter, you might ask them about it. As was said, make sure it starts up right away, and have the engine primed. Make sure it has at the distributor initial timing at least 10 btdc and run it for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm. I...

Only thing is those pesky c-clips.... Sure is easier to set one up than a dana, like those adjustable carrier bearing spanners. Should hold up until you break an axle.

If the plug is not there the oil pressure will be low.

I have EDM's in mine, with HV pump oil pressure has been 25 idle to 70 @3000 with 10-30 oil. Standard volume pump in yours? I think with the 16 leaks the EDM lifters create a HV pump is cheap insurance, JMO.

Is the cup plug missing above the rear main cap, in the galley to make the oil go through the filter? You can check to see if it's in there by pulling the oil sender in the rear of the block and inserting a piece of welding rod down the hole. I checked 2 blocks in the garage and the rod went in...

think I have delete plate but it's not in the best shape, I can try to get a pic of it, and get it to you. PM me if you are still needing it.

Thanks for the info, I am doing a re-ring on a 4.3 chevy with low miles, moly rings, sealed power says 400 grit so I am going to get 400 grit.

What grit flex hone is best for re-ring jobs? I see Flex Hone has 120, 240, 320, 400 and even 600 grit hones, and different materials. I have used the silicon carbide, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thanks in advance

Come up on June 2 to Bandimere for the mega mopar thing & there will be bracket racing going on, we'll be participating, have no problem showing you how it works.

There should be a little preload, 030-060. If you look on ebay, etc, you may find a set of the 273 rockers which were adjustable pretty cheap. Or longer pushrods, you need to see how much you need to go. Where in Colorado?

Core shift happened when the block was cast at the factory. It refers to a variance in the thickness of the cylinder wall. If the casting core shifted at the foundry, it results in cylinder walls that are thinner or thicker. Only way to tell is have the block sonic checked before boring it.

Club Clash, top street. Look for a beige 66 Dart only one around!

First race for me is Friday, and its snowing to beat all, haven't even got to the track yet. Hope my junk is consistant at least. Whole new combo, I have no idea what its going to do. I was going to take it up for T&T tonight, I guess thats out of the picture. Gotta love Colorado weather!

I'm there

make sure to prime the engine after you get it together, some of that wear could have been caused by dry initial start up.

AMC did use torqueflite transmissions but the bellhousing pattern is different. Probobly cost even more than mopar parts prices to soup up an AMC engine, but Indy cylinder head has stuff for the AMC engines. Have fun!

As far as exhaust goes, dual is preferred, but if you want to keep your single hopefully it's at least 2-1/2". On your 67 I'm not sure if you need a specific manifold to clear the drivers side. There are quite a few headers made for your application, tti and Dougs are 2 that come to mind.

True. Dot to dot on a small block is #6TDC. Cam at 12:00 and crank at 12:00 is #1TDC. But put a degree wheel on it to make sure everything is where it should be. They are inexpensive($100) from Summit and worth the trouble.

X2, Stall refering to the stator stopping at max torque multiplication.

On my latest build I used the comp AMC solid flat tappets that oil the face. I primed it with the manifold off and watched them oil the lobes. I fugure it can't hurt, I just had to get shorter pushrods and so far, so good. Might help a solid flat tappet live a little longer with high spring...

x2

I made some solid mounts for my 66 for this season, I have not run mine yet, I am expecting a lot more vibration. Pettyblue, you have solids on yours? If so, did you make your own?