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Lug centric stresses the lugs alot. I've broke plenty offroading, never on a car though. Be sure to get good aftermarket lugs and check them regularly.

I always thought factory painted interior and exterior same color. I thought when it had a different color interior it was just the bolt on stuff like seats,dash,moldings,and panels.

Assuming that it has a tbi454, you're not going to get much better. That gen 454 is the worst BB Chevy made. It had roughly 7.5 to 1 comp and crappy peanut port heads. With hp and torque numbers as low as a typical 350 it wasn't very efficient. My 91 c3500 got 9.5 on flat ground at 55-60mph...

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They do list them... they take a 5 on 4" pattern and make it a 5 on 5" pattern Although I can't see why any most guys here would want 5" I'd think they would want 4.5".

Check the rear springs, loose or broken parts in the rear will cause it to steer off center.

Just bustin your chops....... Although, I like pictures

If both tires are exactly the same diameter and pressure, and you are going dead nuts straight, the spider gears shouldn't be turning. EDIT.... I have an idea for a test..... with the wheels bolted on, jack 1 rear tire off the ground , the other tire on the ground and chocked. Put the trans...

Pics or didnt happen.........lol :worthles:

Even a Comp Cam can be off. Mine was almost 2 degrees retarded.

Don't sound right to me. My Detroit Locker doesn't even sound that bad when ratcheting. Pull both brake drums and spin it again just to be sure it's not anything with the brakes, but to me it sounds like something is starting to let go.

Oh, and if you have a hot glue gun, you can put some glue on the wire connection after it's soldered. When you heat the shrink tubing it'll melt the glue and get the same end result. This is how we used to do it on boats when we couldn't get get the marine grade stuff from our supplier.

http://m.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided Here it is at harbor freight, or you can just search for marine grade heat shrink tube....

Try a DMI low mount alternator bracket. It doesn't use the wp for anything.

Vacuum leak or throttle cable holding carb open. Would be my first guesses. Check cable first. If not it, spray carb cleaner around carb and listen for an idle change. Most likely to be a vacuum line left unplugged, or carb base gasket not on correctly.

Does it have ARP main studs? Oil pump may not be seated flush.

Why not trim old studs shorter? Cut off with a grinder and clean up with a file.

I'm not a body guy , but I'm pretty sure they are talking about a non epoxy type primer. You can still get rust forming unless it is a "sealer" primer. I know guys that have cars that are just in primer that have been that way for 5+ years with no issues. They all use an epoxy primer.

A cars name needs to be earned. Don't rush it, it'll happen when it happens.

Ozone, caused from the electrical sparks from the rotor to the terminals. That's what the small vent on the cap or the side of the distributor is sopposed to be for. It's just not always enough with a high power ignition system.

Those are the gaskets with the raised sealing ring around the ports, correct? If so Edelbrock says to use gaskacinch on the head and corresponding side of the gasket, basically glueing the gasket to the head. (I prefer to use a non hardening Permatex Aviation sealant) Then on the intake side...

If you continue to get the corrosion, you can tap a small hole in the side of the distributor and run a vacuum line up to the air cleaner. It will give just enough vacuum to keep the gases from building up in the cap and causing the corrosion.

If you think the pump is running it lean, get on a back road and hammer it, when it starts to stumble throw it in nuetral and shut it off at the same time. Pull over and check the fuel bowls, if they are empty you will know that is the problem.

If you're having a misfire, the A/F meter can read a false lean condition. The O2 sensor can read the unburned oxygen and think it's lean when it's realy not. I'd check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil first. Just to be sure it's not a false lean reading.

My friend is having the same issue with a Powermaster 100 amp on a customers car. Started immediately after installation. He completely removed the ballast resistor, with a MSD it wasn't sopposed to be there anyway, and spliced the wires together. Problem went away, he figured it was just a bad...

Remflex...........never leak

All things equal, larger tires require less air to hold up the same weight. That said, the width of the rim as compared to the width of the tire can dictate how much air pressure you can run and get an even tread wear pattern. Narrow rim and wide tire.....need to run lower pressure to get the...

Here you go......it's a beautiful Demon

I can see how you read that. I read it as hhmmm? (Thinking out loud) and you read it as hhmmm! (Nose in air). I don't know IQ52 personally, but in the last several years, I've read enough of his posts to know he wasn't talking down to you. :thumrigh:

I was told that it was to clear up a signal issue for the carb. I had an old performer rpm manifold on a Chevy sb400 that wouldn't run well with a MSD Atomic injection. On a tip I had the divider milled down just over .75" and the stumble and sputter when away. No clue why it's not done on a...