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Some unfortunate things have happened to me that are making me seriously consider having to sell my 1970 Dart. I have not had the chance to enjoy driving it because I had been focusing on getting the car how I wanted it before I teased myself with driving it before it was all finished. I just...

Yeah, just going off of what the others have posted here, $6,500 seems on the higher end of what a reasonable price would be.

Hey that's the best news I've heard in a little while! Much appreciated!

I really wish I had the expertise, tools, and space to pull an engine and rebuild it. And I live in the Youngstown area, about halfway between Cleveland and Pittsburgh.

I've talked to over half a dozen shops around here and the average is $3000-$4000. The highest was $6500 from a racing engine shop. After hearing you guys on here, the prices I've been given make me sick...

I also have to factor in the cost of the other things this car needs such as the spaghetti wiring and none of the gauges or lights working, let alone having wiring run to them.

This is what I was looking to find out, thanks! I did check the oil and found no evidence of metal so there's a start but I think I recall hearing a POSSIBLE rod knock but I can't be sure as I have not started it since finding out about the oiling problem.

Any idea of what it "should" cost? Both a typical rebuild and one where machine work would be needed? The car is very solid minus the "removal of the inner fenders and replacement with sheet metal." Seems to be undercoated as well. Only real rust is a tiny bit on a lower wheel well or two.

Craigslist and eBay are options, I am just one to be hesitant trusting people's word. Just not sure what the best option out there is for this certain situation.

It still is actually. I'm a little more "free" to figure things out and not necessarily sell it, or at least attempt to fix it and ask for a little more. The carbs turned out to be the initial problem areas but that quickly turned into the oiling issue.

1970 Dart

Hey all, I'd just like to pick your brains. My 440's oil pump had decided to stop sometime while driving the car to get the carbs rebuilt, which led to the engine stopping at a light. My question is, given the options of rebuilding the engine, replacing it with a crate engine or already rebuilt...

I do appreciate everyone's input. Just trying to find a nice, not TOO expensive toy.

I know for the most part of what I'm looking at, I'm only "just getting into the hobby" because I've been saving up money for a little while now. Mopars have been all my family drives, what with my late grandfather retiring from Chrysler decades ago. We've always worked on our own cars, one of...

I knew it wasn't a factory setup because I decoded the VIN prior to contacting him, which is fine. Just really want to clarify what the car ACTUALLY has currently. vl29c1b374282 Body Type: V = Plymouth Valiant / Duster Price Class: L = Low Body Type: 29 = 2 Door Sports Hardtop...

Here's the original ad (hope no one scoops it out from under me haha): 1971 plymouth duster very clean v8 727 auto runs excel

I was sent this image as well. Again, thanks for the help that has come so quickly!

Unfortunately, this is the best image I have of the area so I cant distinguish much at all and judging from the amount of paint I'm not sure you could in person unless you removed some paint. And yes, I never believed it had the 8 3/4 when he told me.

The seller initially said he wasn't sure about the rear because he bought it "as-is" but would look into trying to find the info I asked of him. He has claimed 360 since the very get-go but just today called me back with the updated info. All together after the new info he says 360, 727, 8 3/4...

I've referenced that chart before and it sure seems to me that it is the 7 1/4, however I was told it has an 8 3/4 with 3.73 gears. Also, I was told it was a 360. This is the only picture I was able to get from the seller of the front of the engine.

Ok everyone, not to sound dumb but can you help me confirm which rear end and engine this could be? I have an idea and know what I was told. Thanks in advance!

I did not put these on the car but I believe they are 14 inch or 15 inch wheels, the fronts being factory Rallye style.

Additional pictures.

Some unfortunate things have happened to me that are making me seriously consider having to sell my 1970 Dart. I have not had the chance to enjoy driving it because I had been focusing on getting the car how I wanted it before I teased myself with driving it before it was all finished. I just...

Just talked to an older gentleman who's a local Mopar guy that's had a shop in the area for a couple decades. He think that the carb is dirty, that debris may be causing the float and/or needle valve to not function properly and overload the cylinder/s with fuel, causing a buildup of fuel making...

Since purchasing the car I haven't done anything with the intake. The intake is a Weiand Hi-Ram Tunnel Ram with 2 750 Holleys. I will also add that the one carb does leak and the oil smells of fuel.

Hey all. I have a 440 with a true dual exhaust. Somewhat recently it started to smoke out of ONLY the driver side pipes. It is a blueish tint and does smell like burnt oil. It starts without any smoke until about a minute after startup. At that point it continues to smoke worse for about another...

I run 93 octane with an octane booster for reference.

Wow thanks for such quick responses! Being that my knowledge of oil is somewhat basic, are there huge pluses/drawbacks in the different weights already mentioned?

Hello everyone, I have a '70 Dart with a 440 in it that I somewhat recently acquired. I however don't know what weight oil to put in it and am hoping I could get a few good tips with choosing the best weight and brand for my setup. Here's what I know about the 440 in regards to oil questions...