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I ran mine with it wired back just into the spring portion or about 1/2-2/3 back. But I ran mine in second no up or down shifting once I was racing.

Braze/weld up the bottom inside of the manifold to give it a sealing surface.

First off we need we need to clarify the intended purpose of the fuses in a circuit. Fuses are there to protect the wiring in case of a short not the "components" in that circuit. That is why you want the fuse to be close to the power source. If you put the fuse close to the component and have...

Do you have a Oxy/Acc torch? You can heat the pitman arm and Idler arm and bend them down for some added clearance. One thing do NOT quench the heated parts with water just let them air cool. That way you don't make it brittle. If your a little more into metallurgy look into anieling them after...

The car as you see it in my sig has a performer w/1" spacer and a holley 4412 with drop base aluminum AC it dose not hit the hood. when I was running IMCA it had the rochester on it and would rub the hood. But! the hood being gutted will bow up a couple inches easy. just put some duct tape on...

I ran the x-celorator in the car in my sig. thats with 4412 and adaptor and a drop base. let it bow up the hood a little. The hood is gutted right.

Also the LA roller cams are more sought after as they have a longer snout to mount a fuel pump cam to. They can be reground for mild performance.

I believe the lengths are measured as if the ball end was completely round. those have a slight flat at the ends which probably account for the missing .020" put set of stockers in it and send it.

The "Quick Ratio " arms were intended to go on a standard ratio box. Also they were initially intended to be used on "E/B" body cars. Im sure that is why there is some clearance issues with "A" body cars. If you install one of the quick pitman arms on a 16-1 box the actual ratio at the wheels is...

I had to have the computer do a quick learn after replacing the solenoid pack in my 06 truck. It wasn't in limp mode but it shifted really hard. The "learn" fixed that.

No address anywhere I look. Kind of hard to run by. Posibly working out of garage.

Im betting that those were on a Magnum head at some point and that is why the brazing and slight reshaping of ports.

try freezing it with dry Ice it works for undercoating

not my car probably should refrain on the pics. I'm getting it running for the new owner. It runs well off a can after some carb and ignition work.

""273, 904 automatic, 1969 Dart GT, Y3 cream, P6G green bucket seats, F3 light green upper door frame paint, 106 January 6, 1969 build date, A04 basic radio group lots of options, C55 bucket seats, G11 tinted glass all windows, G33 left hand outside chrome remote mirror, H51 ait conditioning...

Can anyone decode this fender tag. 69 dart gt

Just run the front ride height on the high side and slow down tor the big bumps. A stiffer Torsion bar helps a lot.

If you are internal balance then you need neutral balance flywheel and damper. And yes it will require some weight added to crank.

I have heard of useing the GM throttle body stuff on a mopar. Its cheap in the JY and there is some aftermarket support for it.

That tin is a heat shield. The exhaust crossover gets so hot it will cook the oil splashing on that part of the intake. There is no access to the passage from under that plate.

Also the factory block deck height was not all that great. If your building a race engine or a spec engine then you should have everything squared up but for a mild fun street motor 50 year old factory tolerances will get you there.

Have you checked the stroke? just thinking,,,

Above deck .070" or .007" at .07" you would probably hit the head.

I actually really think you would like it. It has small primaries kind of like a thermoquad. or the edelbrock AVS2.

So I think I have torque converter problems with my 65 dart gt /6. I did a quick trans rebuild and it still wont move in first or reverse. Im thinking torque converter got trashed with all the clutch shavings. So Im looking at the parts stores/ rock auto/ebay etc and Im haveing trouble finding...

I had a fram oil filter collapse and do that.

Air shocks in a past life .

In my experience Cass (Dr Diff) has always treated me fairly and been very responsive to any issues. I just purchased a green bearing and seal from him and it cost me 10$ shipping. I didn't have a problem with that check what it would cost from say rock auto. They are a BIG company and negotiate...

So I guess I need to fill in the blanks. 360 Cranks are same... so if you want to use factory balance.. the rest of the rotating assy needs to be magnum or LA . in other words if you want LA balance use LA pistons/rods/damper/flywheel, if you want magnum balance use magnum...

The LA and magnum 360 crank counter weights are the same. The external weights are different. IE damper and flywheel.