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I had to buy 16 exh. man. studs this week. Damn they have got pricey! (Stupid Ford manifolds!!) But what hasn't! :BangHead:

Ready to install. Motor #3502071. Vent #2277407. Wiring #3588249. Switch #2820455. Black plastic switch. Motor tested and works fine. $195 and shipping. Thanks FABO.

Welcome aboard! This is The Welcome Wagon, where new members introduce themselves and their cars. We love pictures, so post some up! You'll also want to find the appropriate section to post your technical question so it will get more views and help. Not everyone reads and responds here.

Are you using hardened shafts? High volume pumps need hardened shafts.

Timing chain cover, small block, part # 2951698 $60. Water pumps, small block, part # 2863067, and two 2402794. All spin freely $50 each. Shipping is extra. Thanks FABO.

Still available

I have for sale a used orbital sander sold under the Craftsman brand, P/N 315-277140. It works great with no issues other than it’s used. It’s got a 4 ½” face and comes with the instruction manual. I would like to get $20.00 for it plus the shipping. Ken Edison, NJ

:welcome: to the forum. Do the shafts spin freely in the bush before engaging the cam gear? Some bushing come loose, others come tight and need to be burnished/sized with a special tool. these are what I prefer. We`ll assume the oil pump turns freely? good luck

First time pulling the instrument panel on my 66 Barracuda I failed to disconnect the battery. As I'm pulling the instrument panel, the back of the ignition switch touches the dash, I hear a quick arc --- there went the fusible link. I replaced the fusible link with an inline weatherproof...

I have for sale for a friend of mine who bought a parts car to help with his project, a pair of left and right side lower door hinges that look almost new. They came off of a 68 Dart. They look identical to the ones supplied by Classic Industries but not totally sure...

You've got to remember that the trans hydraulically engages/disengages the lockup- the connector and solenoid is only there to defeat the lockup for towing/hauling, unlike later OD transmissions that utilize full computer control.

Cragars...14" sbp...they are decent but chipped up pretty good under center cap

I'd be interested in speaking with you in more detail about the build. Are you open to me driving down one weekend, or would you prefer to get a better understanding of what I'm looking for out of the engine first?

Nope. They are used. I have a rolling organizer slam full of used slant 6 parts.

I am building a 68-340 for install in my 68 Formula S. I have completed {or so I thought} the build. The engine is in the car but I have snapped 2 oil pump intermediate shafts. I installed a new bushing, new shaft/gear and new oil pump but still snapped 2 shafts. Any help will be appreciated.

Welcome from NW Ohio.

Wheel type and bolt pattern. Cragars??

They are rough...salt ate them up

I have one. PM if interested.

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/ford/

My friend sold his 69 Cuda this past weekend and the buyer was saying the drums I had were not right. Got me second guessing myself so I’m inquiring on here. My understanding was ALL 8-3/4 drums were made with the wing-flange, fronts didn’t have that piece. Even the 7-1/4 had them only smaller...

How are the door sills?

Did you get your last signatures and such for the house work?

Oh He//---you win the grand prize.

Thanks. Will be a while for further testing. Car is semi asleep for winter unless we get some good weather. I will try your suggestions.

Darn, where’d you order yours from?

Turns out the ones i have are not the 44lbs ones. My apology. After looking at them, I now recall I ordered the wrong ones (24lbs) initially and had to reorder the 44lbs ones.

Hey Tim

I have lots of parts, and some core blocks