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Location: Nampa Idaho Just seeing if anyone is interested or can use this. Upgrade my sons engine to an aluminum one. Shipping will be the most expensive since its so heavy. If not no worries will just scrap it. $50 obo + shipping

Always the fun part

45mm? Wow going CO2 pressure for boost control nice

Hey had to cut out part of my inner fenders lol Are you going to dump your waste gate to atmosphere now or plumb it back into the exhaust like before?

Converted my sons car to an electric fuel pump and had a dead head type on there now, need a return/ bypass since the fuel pump that's on there now is a Bosch 044 inline. Or any style with a return for a carburetor.

Not sure, I forgot the reason why MadDart rigged it up this way when he was building this car, I went with the Jeep cam sensor too with an adaptor from SD concepts.

Like this??

Exactly think I heard about them here and man after checking them out I was like worth every penny. I forgot they have the hardened prime shaft too for the high volumes.

Oh bummer, thought they did

Edlebrock has a head its for the newer 4.0L, thought that bolts on to the older /6 just need the 4.0l intake and exhaust.

SB Mopar - Precision Oil Pumps you pay a little more but these guys go through and smooth and debur and check tolerances on all their pumps they sell, fully blue printed, I have one of these on my current TT motor.

The link one I posted did, I pieced mine together.

My race me is perfect plug in and delete and go, has setting you can change on the go, street and performance and race, I keep mine on performance its all I need. Plus comes with a windshield mount to use as gauges and be able to change tunes

Totally get it, its bot for everyone and yes the cost for repairs is higher. Please don't get me wrong the 6.4 is a strong hemi.

Plus gas vs diesel. I've hauled my buddies 28 or 30' camp trailer loaded freeway to winding roads doing 70 and getting 14-18

At 2.08, mine are currently just under at 2.055 in my magnums I have

Oh must have been another person that was in Cali, you should have no problems, deleting everything really wakes up the Cummins, I used the race me tuner

If I had the money I'd love to upgrade to this fully ported head and see what it would for on my motor with the twins on it.

Yeah there are a few sites still that have the kits, not sure if they ship to Cali though. Cummins Performance Parts | Dodge Ram Cummins

Or Ritter block

2014 ram 3500 6.7L dually full delete, travel 40 miles to and from work and with traffic 5 days a week and some driving on the weekends, I fill up every 2 weeks. Get around 24-26 mpg on the freeway with traffic, open freeway, can go from south Idaho to south Cali with 2 tanks.

:popcorn: ^^^^this^^^

Yes I have mine come on with temp, on at 190*

Each flow 1500 cfm, plus the 2 10" fans on the heat exchanger think a total of 9000 cfm flow now with the addition of a meizere pump. Thinking of building my own shroud this winter

Damn that's a lot of amps, I have 4 7" that only pull 3 amps full power.

With all the electronics for fuel injection, fuel pumps and fan I'd be looking to up grade to maybe a 100amp just to make sure. If your getting voltage drops might not be enough. I have a 200amp one, at idle it stays and through driving and getting on it 14volts

What amp alternator are you running?

Guess I could get this kit and just S shape the handle and cut a slot where the factory inside handle is just inbetween the mount holes and pass it through to make it work instead of cutting a slot in the top of the factory door. Hate to cut up a factory door but might just be easier to put a...

True just want something more stable and easier to open the door, and not worry about the bar in anyway that's why I was wondering how to make a vertical lever work on the inside of the door panel with some sort of pivot lever

So the lever is mounted to the door panel?