Search results for query: *

The '78-'81 truck catalog shows part #3893729 as fitting '78-'80 A-B-D-W-CB models with 318/360 and 11" clutch--1 digit off your casting number, which isn't uncommon. The same application uses flywheel #2843211, which cross-references to ATP #Z368, LUK #LFW106, and Pioneer #FW326, all of...

What's this "back when" bull-shty?! I have six old Mopars and run a parts store, the service manager in our shop has two As along with a B-body and a '14 Ram 2500, and my counterwoman has a 290/4-speed '68 AMX and a 454 Chevy K3500 dually! :icon_fU: Seriously, though, I literally just got word...

I found what I need. Thanks @davescuda and @Mtrhead!

5,905 total per Fortune, including corporate (Advance) and independents (CarQuest). It may be "trimming the fat" but their stock has plummeted in past year by more than 30%, which indicates a larger problem than could be blamed on just 12.3% of their stores. Their goal of building the easiest...

There's also a carrier ratio break on the cone types. My Fifth Avenue's 2.2 diff would not work with 3.2 gears.

The 8835S (both the National and Timken part number) along with ATP TO15 are booted seals with the 2.254" OD. Simple parts-store stuff.

I will too. I was thinking of Charger Specialties. :BangHead:

RT Specialties was sold. They made "reproduction"--and I use that term loosely--tachometers. That might be the reason you thought Real Time Engineering got sold.

They're still in business, but having dealt with them for more than a decade, I've never seen where they offered voltmeter conversions.

Nobody offers one for sale, but I believe some of the gauge restoration places can make a "sorta correct" one for you. A friend looked at having it done by Auto Instruments. They could do it, but they don't have a "Volts" mask to screen the gauge face, so it would've been the ammeter face with...

All corporate stores are Advance while all the privateers are CarQuests. That's how they broke them out in the acquisition. Why, or even how, they would close the independent stores is something I find questionable. I run an independent parts store (not a CarQuest) and how closing it could be...

The part linked above is a functional aftermarket replacement that works for several applications including Aspolare (F-bodies) through '80. It'll work just fine if you're not trying to impress show judges. Searching the 'Bay or web for 3579173, 4034436, 3441789, 277717 or H25-136 (plus the...

"If shift effort becomes extremely high..." :rolleyes: Being in Mini-scrotum you probably know this all too well, but for those in warmer climes who aren't aware: Shifting an A833 full of SAE140 on a -25°F morning is a lot like trying to kayak through wet concrete.

Thanks, @davescuda, but I'm trying to find one with no cracks or breaks.

The first thing I would do would be have the car put on a frame rack to insure it didn't get bent. The roof is structural to the subframes. It may have tweaked something, it may not. I'd rather know, personally. My '74 Challenger looked very straight when I got it, but I had it racked...

I'll send you a PM.

Are the ones on the right unmodified and uncracked? The lower one looks pretty good!

Did you come up with anything?

When checking the fusible link, grab both ends of it and pull gently. The link blew in my '72 Charger when the alternator shorted, but it looked fine. The insulation was still intact. I pulled it from the ends and the insulation stretched. It was blown with no visible outward indication.

10 years from a Dink vise isn't bad.

Those suckers set me back way over a grand, and that was in 2014. They were my Christmas gift to myself for the next three years. That's the $7,500 Wonder: It was a running 225 column-auto 7.25" car when I bought it. Now it's a solid-roller W2 340, 4-speed, 4.10 Sure Grip 8.75" with SBP K-H...

I understand your point entirely. However, I don't think @Muswagon was being serious based on the little winky at the end of his post. Guys with a little winky rarely get taken seriously.

$1K would be getting off lightly.

I scrapped a '74 Challenger in September after parting it for everything it was worth. It was completely rotten, with the exception of the rear seat area--both the cross-braces and the package tray--and the rear-deck filler panel. A tree had fallen on it to boot. Every fastener worth taking...

I kind of like your plan with the 596 heads and the RV cam. The 318 heads might not hurt you much--hell, they'd help in the bottom-end grunt department--but the 596s are done. Any money thrown at the stock heads is money wasted in my mind, and you admit the guides are wasted.

No worries. @Muswagon is just poking @Newbomb Turk with the synthetic comment. It's all in good fun.

I feel your pain. I'm not too worried about the Valiant beyond looks. I have SBP Centerlines with drag radials out back and pizza cutters on the front for track use, but it'll never see corners with any enthusiasm. My Challenger was a different story. I wanted more of a corner-burner and...

Doesn't get less classy than a beater '69 Valiant. The wheels make the car. :D

Is it ink, or is it a watermark? Due to the age of the car, they may not care anymore. I have a couple of MI titles with "EXEMPT" where the odometer reading should be. My understanding is that because the cars are so old, they just assume it's beyond the mechanical limits of the odo (99,999...

Yeah, I'm aware. There were something like 200 just to get the roof and drip rails off my Challenger. But hey, winter's upon us, I've nothing (much) better to do, and I want to get the 340 car to the body shop as soon as I can. That means getting the parts I need off the car, so while I'm out...