Search results for query: *

ive made several attempts to buy mopar stuff from fakebook. cant get straight answers and you cant get the contact information to buy. i chalk it up as a scam

looks like it holds wiring under the dash

my hi volume oil pump netted 100psi when it was new. im on a stock rallye dash gage now so dont have numbers anymore. but the stock gage reads 3/4 now.

base circle on a regrind cam will make stock pushrods too short

does it have a regrind cam? adjustable rockers?

i don’t recommend blasting the outer sheet metal or the backside of outer sheet metal but you could get the whole underside and engine bay, interior floor, and trunk floor of car done professionally for $400 bucks. that would require a total nut and bolt job before you take it to them. dont want...

my leak turned out to be coming from a screw hole where a junction for the windshield washer hoses plug into right on top of the cowl under the back edge of the hood. it was leaking in to the drivers fresh air box from there and into the floorboard. so look to see if your missing that hose...

dart swinger under quarter glass on quarter panels and on trunk lid.

inbox is clear

if you cut out an a/c car firewall section and overlay it on a non ac car trace it and cut it out perfectly you cannot tell that it was not an a/c car. all a/c components on the firewall will bolt right up

no sir.

dang. RIP Lizzi

no i put 74 doors on a 71 cuz i don’t like the cigarrette windows so much. and looks good IMO side marker lights verify 1971 i know where original doors are if you just have to have them rallye dash is custom to this car too. this is not an h code car. i took the liberty of a little tweaking...

and this was a 99% rust free car when i started/bought it.

yeah stupid iphone. i took care of the grandbaby pics. oops

power steering manual brakes and a/c all there needs charged etc. does have all new orings on a/c. just needs one wire under hood to compressor and charged as far as i know

things it needs: body seam sealed in corners of rear glass rear main seal from sitting on an incline. rear quarter glass adjusted. ac looked at and charged. needs original sending unit. its the only gauge on dash not working. you can hop in it and cruise it though.

i will get more updated pictures

for sale is my 1971 dodge dart. $16000.00 i have over 20k invested not even including the many hours of labor. and it could use more to make it a show winner. i nut and bolted this from scratch. but in reality are they ever a finished project?? theres always one more thing you wanna do to...

i have the dynomax 2.5 inch mufflers provided with my tti x pipe exhaust system. they are what i consider to be pretty quiet with no drone

the 75 is a parts car in my eyes. the 71 with a 69 valiant grill would be sweet

best thing i ever did was go with a hydraulic TO bearing setup. it feels so good compared to all my stock setups in the past. well worth the 600 or so cost

it appearrs brewers does not have a steel 18 spline tool but give them a call. if it dont slide out like butter there's not much sense in even picking up the tans

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=CAT23-O or if your lucky they have plastic one at autozone for $3

do you have an 18 spline alignment tool? i will never go in without that stabbed up in there before you put pressure plate on a real input shaft would be your best bet. if you have one of those plastic ones maybe its old and twisted a bit

http://www.evanswiring.com/default.htm

thanks fellas i think i will call evans as suggested. i might as well do the electronic ignition harness too.

looking for a oem A/C lead/wire that goes from firewall harness to the air conditioner compressor on a 71’ dart with a 318 v8. i believe it is blue. like to get my A/C going fot the summer. Thanks!

i believe you unscrew the amber lens from inside fender backside to access. you may have to remove the whole assembly if there is corrosion or undercoating. try not to tear your paint gasket. the red rears pull out/snap out from inside trunk like you would expect. someone can confirm its...

thank you so much for the info !!! factory seats are about 3.5k + - 1k for used seats w/tracks needing redone, 1k for new covers, 400 for new foam, 100? for hog ring pliers and supplies, 500 for new seat tracks if it needs them, 500 for rear covers to match front ones, 100 for square seat...