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Yeah I have the LM1 as well. Originally for the tail-pipe but I didn’t think that was a very accurate way to measure.

Faulty? Maybe the car just needs a good thrashing? Faulty knows how!

July 1961 I must have picked this up years ago as thats the year and month I was born. Check out the cool Chrysler 300 F! Added some other cool adds back in the day where men were men and lumberjacks were em eating spam? Enjoy…

Downstream from the collector like 6”?

Guys has anyone installed a Wide Band O2 bung on a long tube header collector while connected up? Let’s assume I have a decent 360 angle to weld it. I really don’t want to yank the heads if I don’t have to. Just curious if this is a common practice or a definite no no. Thanks

After installing Leo’s hinges I smile every time I open and close my doors. Having a door that hangs correctly and straight door gaps is a wonderful thing. Leo’s work is amazing . Was super impressed with the professionalism and detail of his work. Worth every penny!

I’m not trying to make this difficult. I’m trying to learn something and trying to gather my information before I contact them. I am at a slight disadvantage as I don’t know what cam is in there. That’s why I want to make sure I have everything else that I can possibly give them. I do know what...

Ok maybe we can break this down to 4 areas. Here is what I have off the top of my head. What else might they ask? Engine: 1. Cam specifications 2. Torque/HP curve if available with AF 3. Vacuum at idle 4. Carburetor CFM 5. Fuel type 6. Lifter/Rocker type solid/roller flat tappet etc. Car: 1...

Yes as a direct conversion BUT I wasn’t clear. The Y-axis is MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure. MAP = Barometric Pressure - Vacuum Then you have to convert to Kpa if your using In-Hg for Baro and Vacuum.

Thats vacuum measured in kPa. Wish it was in Hg. It’s opposite so 100Kpa is 0 Hg you have to convert.

Works fantastic by the way! There is no way I could have tuned my motor this well with springs. I have the wrong torque converter that is too tight and a high cammed motor. I was getting significant drop in rpm in gear with my msd set up. I used this programable distributor to increase timing...

Are washers needed for proper assembly? The PRW kit comes with them however mentioned in other threads PRW does not make what I need which is 3/8x24 5/16 ball. I found two sources for them so the question is do I need the washers and should I use them? Thanks

All I did here was revered the original set screw.

Thanks I thought this was a mod to the original.

Or better yet save the $80 and just put the screw in from the top! It’s free and it works! Plenty of range!

It dies and if you noticed like me it’s VERY SENSITIVE! Small fractional turns moved idle a lot!

I do have a mixed bag of adjusters this was bothering me for a long time. But when I went to remove one, they were jammed together so tight that I needed a torch to take them apart. What do you recommend I use? I want to replace all of them so I know that they are compatible with each other.

Thank you, so are the threads of the ball head screw you show from Crane a standard 5/16x24 with no interference? Just the nut that has the interference thread?

Thanks I ground flats on mine a while back. What I would really like to know is when you have two threaded parts are both set up with interference threads like what I have? This doesn’t seem correct as they are way too tight when both engagements close. I would think either the nut would have...

So as I started to adjust my valves I had a really hard time loosening the jam nut of the rocker arm adjuster screw. What I have is a mix of both stock style jam screws and jam nuts (see middle picture). I had faced all rockers when I had them out btw. The ball end rocker screw (see top pic)...

I am setting both Intake and Exhaust valves cold to Intake 0.016/Exhaust 0.020 cold!. I believe this might equate ~ to Intake 0.020 and Exhaust 0.024 hot. I am having issues with the adjuster screws. And am going to start a separate thread for that.

Rusty was this hot or cold?

Thanks guys this gives me a good frame of reference to start with.

Right not a solid roller but am running a solid flat tappet.

Iron heads is what I got. Is that at ambient or at running temperature?

Ok, I am a glutton for punishment. I know you’re supposed to set valve lash close to running temperature, its 120°F in my garage so I won’t. I will set it at ambient. I know you’re supposed to have a card for your cam, I don’t. As Schultz used to say I know nothing about this cam. Engine: 340...

It fits but you have to get the wire in the cap then install the cap.

Yes once you convert Kpa to Hg in your head or on paper. EVERYTHING else is super easy. I installed the distributor in 30 minutes. Super nice unit, you can modify the curve on the fly while the car is running! Good family business. It’s all you need. No box is needed. All solid state with...

Not yet it’s been a slog as I had to stop and get my braking system working and had to remove my axle to get a bent backing plate replaced. All in 115°F heat. Then I was going to get Halifaxhops (Ray) to build me a VA distributor but after thinking hard about it … it was going to need to change...