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Hi Moparmaga, thanks for following along. I have a photo of the temporary mounts I used in the video, if that's what you are looking for... Since then, I have made new ones from chromemoly tubing. (saved 4 lbs)

I decided to start a YouTube channel to show the Valiant build... the first few videos are posted, lots more to come. I hope I'm not breaking any rules here, I looked and didn't see any restrictions to this sort of a link. If I should not have posted it, please remove it. Garry NOT FRAGILE

If anyone has 1967 Valiant Tail Lights, I'd be happy to pay you and take them off your hands. I will take a complete set, including lenses and housings, but I particularly need the clear reverse light lenses. Classic Industries shows them in their catalog, and I have had a pair on backorder for...

Thanks, cudamark. I bought '68 seals from Dante's.

Howdy folks, I'm looking for a rear window gasket for my '67 Valiant 2 door sedan. The rear glass is not the same as a Dart, or a hardtop model. I've tried all the usual suspects, Auto City, Just Mopar, Laytons, etc.. no luck. If I could come up with a dimensioned cross section, I might be able...

Here is a photo of the passenger side wheel tub approximately clamped in place prior to final fitting. Gives you a better idea of the shape I wanted, compared to the usual curved tubs... The trunk floor was pretty simple, just needs a couple of custom shapes to seal up all the openings...

So, for the wheel tubs I looked at all the usual suspects... trailer fenders, wheel tub kits... nothing seemed to be what I wanted. I wanted my wheel tubs to be the same shape (flat top) as the originals, only a lot wider and longer to accommodate as big as a 30" tire. So, when I couldn't find...

With most of the underside of the chassis fabrication done, it was a good time to weld the seams where the new floor pans met the old ones. Next up, approximate seating position, which determines critical placement of specific roll cage bars. I quickly fabbed up some temporary seat mounts and...

After getting the new rear frame rails exactly where I wanted them, I began designing the additional bracing to ensure they stayed in place. In the back I welded in a 2x3 steel rectangular tube, (0.120 wall) and then I made triangulated braces for each side of the rails. The holes in the angled...

Next... I cut the entire rear sheetmetal out of the car, from the rear footwells to the rear bumper. Plasma cutter to the rescue, for sure. I spent a long time making sure everything fit, and was square and plumb. I checked every measurement probably 5 times. Getting the back half frame...

There was no way in hell to save the drivers front quarter... and new sheet metal is not available for the Valiant, (only Dart). So, a member on here traded me a rear door from a more door Valiant that had the body lines I needed. I cut the replacement metal out of that rear door, and replaced...

After getting the car blasted and coated in 2K epoxy primer, I began strengthening the front half of the chassis, with a kit from US Car Tool. This kit included subframe extensions, rad support brace, inner fender braces, and torque boxes. Before I could install the torque boxes or frame...

It's been quite a while since I've posted anything... between work and trying to keep up with all the various projects, I barely have time to read posts, let alone make my own. But anyway, here's the story and the situation. You're welcome to follow along as the build continues. Required Warning...

Thanks! I was not aware of US Body. Appreciated!

Thanks very much! I appreciate your knowledge and help!

Hi Mike, I fixed my inbox, you can message me now.

Thanks Alan, I knew the hood was different, but I was hoping the deck lid would be the same. Oh well... it's never easy, right? :) Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

Howdy! Been a while since I was here... but I know for sure the folks in here are the most knowledgeable A-body people around, so here goes. I'm building a '67 Valiant 2 door sedan for drag 'n drive type events. The car has been back halved, has a 4 Link from S&W and a Gerst front suspension...

Moved to body section.

SLOWPAR72, I can't take credit for those spool gun welds, those were done at the Kirkey factory.

You can do a pretty decent job with a spool gun and a bit of practice, especially if you're welding fairly thin material (like a pontoon). Here is a photo of an aluminum seat out of my Valiant that was welded with a spool gun.

In my opinion, TIG welding requires a significant amount of practice to do a decent job. I had used a stick welder, and oxy /acetylene for 10 years before I bought a MIG. It was dead easy to use and get great welds. Then, I decided I wanted a TIG to weld my roll cage and other things including...

I'm gonna be like John, and pull out of the competition for the rest of the season.

OK, I'm back to my original picks for the season... Top Fuel - Brittany Force Funny Car - Robert Hight Pro Stock - Erica Enders Pro Stock Bike - Angelle Sampey

For the July 11-12th race only: TF - Antron Brown FC - Jack Beckman PS - Erica Enders PSM - Angele Sampey

When I back-halfed my Valiant, I just built a dolly system that went across the car, temporarily tack welded to the front/rear subframe. This is how I rolled the car on and off the trailer to the stripper and epoxy undercoater. Top pic before, bottom pic after stripping and coating.

I found this in a lengthy but excellent article on the physics of an automotive cooling system, written by the engineers at Griffin Radiators. If you want to read the entire article, here's the link: Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world. If you just want to get...

I have used several of the kits from CE Auto Electric. They are not inexpensive, but you get what you pay for. Exceptional quality, handmade, and their customer service is great. Call them and ask for Tony.

My picks for the 2020 season: Top Fuel - Brittany Force Funny Car - Robert Hight Pro Stock - Erica Enders Pro Stock Bike - Angelle Sampey

You can amplify the output of the 8-track, just as others have said. You can use a high to low level adapter, or simply buy an amplifier with built in high level inputs. However, you might not be all that happy with the results, so proceed with a bit of caution and have relatively low...