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I just bought a Gen IV evaporator and inside cabin kit for a 55 Chevy or something because Summit had it of sale for 25% off. I installed this in a 57 Dodge pickup I'm building. The rest of the components including the triple pass(R-134 requirement) condenser and receiver dryer I bought from...

I bought a 22", 4-row, brass radiator from US Radiator for my '68 Barracuda that originally had a Slant 6 from the factory. The bottom outlet is on the passenger side and the top inlet is on the driver's side. It fit, and cooled well with 382 RWHP Magnum with a flashed factory OBDII JTEK...

I'm planning on spraying straight methanol into the volute of the supercharger? If that's not enough, I'll add a Chiller fed by my A/C along with a heat exchanger. Both have the benefit of being very compact and very effective. https://icchiller.com/universal-kits/...

Most folks seem to miss checking the face's angle in relation to the crank/block. It does mater just as much as the bore run-out.

You can install Holley's Hydromat and gain the benefit of a 10 micron filter and enhanced fuel pick-up at lower fuel levels if you have the $. The smaller ones are less expensive and still work well.

That is interesting. Confirm this is an LA based engine and not a Magnum based engine? How much clearance in "inches" (sorry about my ignorance of the metric system, I have to use a conversion app) do you have between the torque converter when it's unbolted from the flexplate and pushed all the...

3000 CFM. The car is my daily driver, so no heavy track use, and I am spraying straight methanol.

I bought a custom radiator spec'd out by US Radiator several years ago for my '68 Barracuda. It effectively cooled the Magnum based 408" stroker that put out around 380 RWHP with an A/C condenser in front of it. I was running a factory radiator fan and clutch. I am now upgrading a similar...

Good catch. I'm using a Gen 2 frame, not a '94 rather a '97 or later.

Finish Line in Santa Clara is top shelf. They did my '68's interior, and it beautiful. Ask for Byron.

For anyone interested, I'm building a 57 Dodge D100 on a shortened '94 (correction a '97 or '98) Dodge Dakota chassis, and discovered that TTI has the jigs etc to build a 1 3/4" set of long tube headers designed by John at Southeast Performance. I got on their list about a month ago. They look...

I'm about to set-up a straight methanol system on a fresh 408 Magnum with a Paxton style supercharger, and am curious if you can elaborate on your system and your experiences with it?

Are you using any methanol injection to cool your intake charge?

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/ford/

Turns out the ones i have are not the 44lbs ones. My apology. After looking at them, I now recall I ordered the wrong ones (24lbs) initially and had to reorder the 44lbs ones.

I need to double check the connectors. USAC or something, but they make inexpensive adapters if needed. Length is the same between the manifold and fuel rail.

The Ford Racing 44lbs injectors work very well. They are a 4-hole nozzle design for better atomization. I have a couple of spare sets with a few hours on them, if you want to save $.

Drum or disc rears? pictures of distribution or proportioning valve please.

For longer higher speed use, the factory fill level is appropriate. I've heard that for 1/8 and 1/4 mile use etc, you can get away with around 1 quart of gear oil, as that will provide adequate lubrication, shack-load protection and require less power to spin. I have not tried this, but there...

I had the same problem. Tried stuffing a bit of Scotchbrite pad into it, but it still leaked. I finally soldered an inch long piece of tube to it and put a length of hose on it routed up higher and pointed it down at the end. No more leak.

The old adage, "Speed cost money. How fast do you want to go?" applies here too. What is your budget? I can share which components I would use, given your budget if you like. Take a look on Woofer's etc and Crutchfield's web-site, and then individually shop each item on the web for the best...

You could leave the stock radio alone, and use your smartphone to stream music into a Digital Signal Processor with a built in amp via bluetooth and then on to your speakers which can be concealed or not.

I've got one up in the South Bay Area. Remember that if you neutral balanced the motor you have to use the 5.2 Magnum flex plate. How about $10 plus the ride?

Sand, buff, paint and seal with wax etc.

Nice work.

Daytime on any day that ends in "y".

None of my aluminum trim has been re-anodized, and it looks great after 7 or so years after being polished. It's one of my daily drivers, and I've done nothing but wipe them down when I wipe down the car with detail spray and a micro-fiber towel. It simply doesn't need it, as far as I can tell.

I believe it. They wanted $4k to do both surrounds complete, pre-covid price. I paid them $2k to re-do the surrounds with no-re-anodizing. It's been a number of years now, and they still look like they do in the previously posted photos. I had no choice but to save up and pay. It was the final...

My buddy block sanded and polished nearly all the trim on my car, both aluminum and stainless. He didn't strip the parts, but essentially sanded it off by hand. My one year only '68 grill surrounds had been smashed virtually flat from years of getting too close to walls etc. They are hard to...

Good catch, and I would assume lower gains as the motors approach "stock-ness".