Search results for query: *

Friend of mine dyno'd a 372" SBM with W2 heads. The TTI's were almost 10hp less that the Hookers. He said that the TTI's had too sharp of a bend close to the heads. But the Hooker's do hang very low.

If you don't want to drop it out the bottom. You can unbolt the headers from the heads and pull the engine and trans out the top.

I use a B&M Pro Ratchet shifter, Shiftnoid electric shifter and a digital delay shift timer. No worries about not working and shifts right where I want it to every time.

More pics

1968 Plymouth Valiant · Sedan · Driven 60,000 miles. I'm in Tuscaloosa, Al The car is at Laverne Ferrouillat's shop in Moblie, Al I have a 68' Valiant 2 door project that I've been working on for a few years. Lots of high dollar parts. I'm a motivated seller. I just need a sell it and move on...

Little more progress

Yes sir

If you go to the Million dollar braket race. I almost never see anyone shifting on rpm.

My brother went a new best 10.90 @ 124 in his basically stock N/A 6.4 2020 Challenger. It weighs 4150 with him in it. It's stock except it has a smaller crank pulley, a lithium battery, bigger injectors and a tune for E85. Wallace calculator says that it takes 636 hp to go 124 in the 1/4 at...

It has been my experience that shifting on time is more consistent for me. Someone earlier in the tread had a digital delay shift timer. That's what I use. Every 3 speed transmission braket car I ever had ran quicker if you short shift the 1-2 shift. We shift 1-2 at 1.65 seconds which is 6400...

If can find some Formula V traction treatment it works well

Our little Bloomer headed SBM stock block low compression. 5.84 @ 116. I guess it's really a junk build.....lol

LOL!!! That's the only feature of the truck I don't like. Also then you're sitting inside it takes up about a third of the windshield. It's going to be a braket truck and I need as much visibility from inside as possible.

I think I'm going with a flat hood. If I can. If not then I'll try a small Areo scoop like I have on my AMX

I hope to have it race ready by March or April. I don't like the hood scoop. I'm going to change that.

Yes sir 2001. I bought a kit from Stainless Steel Headers. 2" primary and 4" collector to make the headers for it.

This is the cam we're using. With 1.7 rockers

Sweet Duster!!!

Cool you'll be very happy with them. Mine have been great.

I'ts N/A 2.125" intake. 14.8 to 1 compression

I didn't get s chance to do that before he sent it off to Brett.

Little more progress on the W5 engine for my Dakota

W2 heads are great heads and like you said they are plentiful. With the Bloomer heads we are making a honest 680 hp with only 11.2 to 1 compression. They say that a full point of compression is worth 15-20 hp. So with a full 14.5 to 1 compression 725 hp is possible and porting the intake might...

I put a 060 shim under my rocker arm shaft. I use the Hughes 1.6 rocker arms. Mine was almost perfect as it was. But with the shim it's perfect now.

We made a few very minor changes to the engine. We put a Crower 31409 camshaft in it . We switched it over to alcohol fuel. We switched over to stainless steel rings, we thought that they would be more durable with the alcohol fuel. And added a vacuum pump.

We use the Hughes 1.6 rocker arms. I was very hesitant at first and was going to change them. But Rod Bloomer talked me into keeping them. It was a good decision. They have worked flawlessly for my application.

It's a 421" SBM with a TF904 trans. It weighs 2630 without the driver.

I don't think there's a offset rocker version at this time. They tried one a few years ago and didn't like the results.

I bought a 060 shim from Mancini Racing to move my sweep pattern out a little. The pattern is perfect now.

Like I've said in other post. Theirs lots of good head porters out there that can work wonders with SBM aluminum heads. The thing about the BPE heads is that you can buy them, have them shipped direct to you. Take them out on the box, install them on a properly prepared short block and make over...