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First set made are stock length and called Tough Mothers and the second set are 2 inch over stock length Bad Boys. Both fit stock rubber or poly with a 1/2 inch bushing ID.

From my other post, this is where my rattle was coming from. Betcha I don’t break these. 1/4 x 1-1/2 plate and 1/2 shank bolts with nyloc nuts. The bolts have the heads cut off and welded into the holes in the plate. I used 1-1/2 plate because the poly bushings have a 1-1/2 outer section...

Yep, that would do it.:D Factory hangers and poly bushing. They even had factory lock nuts on them. Some even the pressed in stud gave up. Jees, both sides.

Hey all. Awhile back (years) :D I bought what I considered a fairly expensive steering wheel that is a two piece design. The problem started a few months back when the plastic vinyl covered section of the wheel started separating from the billet section of the wheel. The plastic is just too thin...

I looked all over the place and can't find a resource for determining an 8.25 housing year and type by the stampings on the case. No tag with it, but it has 27 splines and a 3.55 gear set. The spring perches are currently on top of the axles and have a 5/8 locating pin hole, so I'm guessing it...

The ONE thing I allow someone else to touch on my car and they can't seem to get it right. For the second time in a row now I have taken my car down to have tires changed and balanced and the first time I get out on the hiway with it and it shakes the hell out of the car and I have to take it...

Like a constipated duck when one of the rear wheels goes into a dip. I checked and made sure the nylon strips are there, and they are. Also all of the bushings in the rear were replaced with Poly but that sound has always been consistant so I figure it has to be the spring surfaces. Anyone...

73 Swinger 318 with aluminum intake and 1 5/8 headers. Well, I finally got around to replacing my stock T bars with PST's factory clocked bars. It seems I got real lucky with the swap because all I had to do was back the tension off the adjusters, pull the retainer clips and lower the rear...

A few days ago I looked up some 103 torsion bars for my Dart so I could finally get rid of the mushy and easy to bottom out factory bars. Due to the fact that PST is one of our sponsors and sellers I wanted to shop local so to speak. First let me say that the guys at PST were very...

Awhile back I replaced all my front bushings with Poly from Just Suspension and was expecting to hear a little more road noise from it due to the harder material. One day not too long after that I heard a roaring wheel bearing from the right front and thought "Damn, I better get to that pretty...

A few days ago I took my car (73 Dart) out for a 160 mile highway trip and noticed that it tracked strangely. If I crossed a line of slightly uneven pavement it tended to veer that way and I would have to correct it back, or it would practically change lanes on it's own. (well not quite that...

Hey all, I have a question about centerline thrust. I know what centerline thrust is, and why it is important but how does one determine what the centerline thrust is, and when it is necessary to adjust it? I have a feeling mine is out of line a little due to a slight sideways hop of the...

If I replaced all of my rear bushings with energy suspension parts, and everything worked out great? Where would this post be best suited for? Sorry, Im a smartass at heart. :violent1:

I have looked up the options and prices on them and was not impressed at all. The structure of the materials just seems to weak and kinda cheesy actually for what they charge for the stuff. I'm sure thier products make a difference, but not as solid as it could be. ESPECIALLY for the "bolt in...