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I know this isn’t what you want to hear, but why are you putting some much effort and $$$ into a 273 if what you want is “fast”? I’d be building a 360…same $$$, more cubes. …and BTW, I’m a 273 lover! JMHO.

I know, but if the studs or nuts are coming loose…….

I know it’s a no-no, but you may have to use thread locker on the head studs/nuts!

Another welcome from the Island!:canada::thumbsup:

They are...the tube on certain Holleys is too long to fit with the seals...you have to use the o-rings... ...and yes, the o-rings on the needle-seat assembly need to be replaced if hard...will cause flooding no matter how far you screw the assembly in...just went through this on several...

Those are state regs...don't think the feds can touch them. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

* 273 (2-Barrel).........530 Grams * 273 'Commando'......569 Grams Does a 39 gram difference require a rebalance?

If you look close, there is a nipple right below the black plastic part. Here’s how my AFB came from the factory…

Which one?

Yes, post #2 is the correct way…ported vac to distributor.

You can use the plastic chrome mylar strips from Ch*vy trucks...get it from local body shops...comes off a roll...much cheaper than the repro stuff.

qkcuda's pic does pretty well showing the ports to be capped. #3 leave open...that's fresh air for the electric choke.....cap it and the electric choke coil burns out....#1 and #2 are just extra bowl vents for charcoal cannister, etc, if equipped...they can be capped.

Ah ok…my bad….misread your post…thought there was some kind of lube on the gaskets…

“ .with there lube” lube???…I’ve always installed head gaskets dry!?!?!

Not so much, as it's gone.:(

A recall wheel for $250....hahahahahaha!

Actually, you want '302's...'308's have large open chambers...compression loss.

All well and good, but off the topic of this thread. If you’re saying intakes, heads and blocks are all so far out of spec, you have to mill anyway, I’m just saying, if you have to mill, you can mill the intake or the head intake surface…both get you to the same conclusion. Not argueing any...

Well, whatever….just did this on a 360 I just finished. I have 4 intake manifolds to chose from, and all fit perfectly.

Don't remember any city streets in my town ever getting resealed every 4 years.

...or have the intake surface of the heads cut...that way any non-cut intake will fit those heads.

187 and 699 pans...maybe these'll fit?...

Only 2 TV car shows I watch...Graveyard Cars and Iron Resurrection! The rest are crap!

Lucky???…it’s all skill and treachery!!!…:rofl::rofl:

Good stuff…seemed like the only thing you hadn’t checked.

Thanks. I’m in Canada, so a $3.00 gasket will cost $20 shipping. I was asking if anyone else got an oversized one to see if mine was a fluke, or are they wide-spread incorrect.

Anyone bought one of these lately, and find it’s too large? Did just that yesterday, and had to trim the outside of the gasket to fit in the recess on the block…’74 360,by the way.

Leaky floats?

So straight 30W is OK for break-in? I would think a multi-vis, as in 10W-30 would be better at initial start-up to get into the tight clearances of a new engine?

Probably been asked before ( I searched, but no go), but what’s the best break-in oil for a flat-tappet engine (360, if it matters)?