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Trans came apart to inspect clutches in both drums and band material. Was reinstalled exactly how it came out. I triple checked clutches lined up, and it felt like it all sat back down properly into the sunshell at the right depth. At this point I think I am better off just pulling it and seeing...

Definitely possible. I guess I can pull the pan and try removing the park rod completely and see what happens before I yank the entire trans out

99% sure it was installed correctly as I checked for smooth operation before bolting on the pan...but I can drop the pan and check again in the car When you say bound up, what exactly do you mean? The trans worked fine when pulled, I inspected the clutches and bands, and re assembled along with...

And now things are getting worse- now, no matter what gear I put the trans into, I can not sping the output shaft at all, either direction...

Yes. Nothing changed besides converter and valvebody...same trans, same tailshaft seal, same driveshaft, yoke and u joints

I cleaned it and blew it out with compressed air, but I'll check again

Seal was not changed. On my Scamp I installed the driveshaft many times with front jacked up and rear wheels on the ground, so this stumped me and concerned me. The car is on a hill (rear of car is downhill) so maybe if I do jack it up level, maybe that helps. I was always under the impression...

I had my 727 out for the winter to do a quick inspection, and install a manual valvebody. Everything went back together as it came apart. I have also installed a 9.5" aftermarket converter. Converter was installed, fully seated, before mating transmission back to the engine and reinstalling in...

So if that connection on the relay is not connected to anything else (confirmed with testing as mentioned) then I can connect that J3 Brown wire to the J2 blue wire, and get my ignition in RUN and START with no backfeed?

If that's the case, then I am even MORE proud of some in here! LOL

Damn, I am impressed how old most of you are and how many are kicking *** at the races still! Young at heart is really the key to it all...keep pluggin away fellas, gives me motivation to get out there!

34 years old, made my first pass ever in my Scamp when I was 21...Did a short stint of race promoting for a few years trying to get grudge and no time racing off the ground here North of the Border, and the politics of it drove me to almost give up the sport for myself. Last pass down a track I...

I will have a set of 2.94 gears available very soon, but not a whole rear axle unfortunately. From my research, you can get suregrips from late model jeeps (Jeep libertys) and Dakotas up to 93 or 94 I believe, but there was a year where they changed spline counts from 27 to 29, so you need to...

Hey gents, Sorry for the late reply. Had a busy weekend getting the engine and trans back into the car that is being discussed here, as both were out for rebuild over the winter. The plan this week is to get the harness back into the car and run some tests with the volt meter to see where I can...

The joining of blue and brown mentioned earlier in this thread to create 12v switched power, that joint, is going to be the feed for a relay that sends power to this aux fuse block. But the more I think about it, I guess that relay is not a replacement for a fusible link or fuse. Also, im the...

Yes, not sure what year, they went from being 1 manual to separate for chassis and electrical. I have a 1977 chassis manual, and a 1976 electrical. Being my car is a 77, I really thought there wouldn't be much difference in the electrical components throughout the years of the same vehicles...

The fuse block is currently going to run the Mallory CD ignition, an Autometer tachometer, and a basic CD deck....at some point later down the road, it may get an electric fuel pump, which is something that may be added to this fuse block, so setting up the wiring now for future growth makes the...

All I know is that the car was running with the wiring this way. I only took out the harness to go through it, and figure out finding switched 12v power. Those tests I could definitely run once I get the harness and battery back in the car, as well as the engine/trans (hopefully this weekend)...

Im trying to locate a proper wiring diagram for the ignition switch for 1977 as I only have one for 1976, and I know the ignition switch and starter relay changed in 1977. The reason it may SEEM I am overcomplicating this is because IGN1 (the blue wire) is ran just as mentioned here, and also as...

Ok so I think I have this figured out. First pic shows the only wire that comes to the starter relay from inside ignition switch which is the yellow going to "I" for ignition on the relay Next is the brown wire that goesto the "bal" terminal on the relay, that when traced to the ballast...

Thanks for your reply. I agree that this is not an A-body, and I know things are different, but the input is what I was after. In terms of a trigger, I need a trigger for the auxiliary fuse block I installed, not just the CD ignition system. I am aware that the heavy red and black are what...

Funny you mention that, because before I posted this thread I was doing some digging and it seems to not be recommended to use the starter relay in this way. I mean, if it could be used, that would be awesome and simplifies things, but if not, then where could I pull 12v ignition power from?

Okay, going to try and get this figured out in the garage tonight. I can't remember if I kept the old wires that I removed. Here I was removing wires thinking they would be useless, even for this use scenario...oh boy lol

As in a jumper from one terminal on the starter relay, to the other? So the wire that fed the ballast, which would be going to "BAL" on my starter relay would be switched 12v power...But I need hot in both run and start since the ignition box needs power in start to fire the car.

Not sure I fully understand....the blue wire that went to the ballast has what function?

Hot in run and start. Yes, still using factory ignition switch, there are no toggles for anything. The only wires I removed ran from starter relay to either ballast resistor, EGR recirculator, or the factory electronic ignition box, nothing to the actual bulkhead connector was removed removed...

So not technically an a-body, but I am hoping to get some assistance here since the concept is similar... I have been going through the harness on my 1977 Aspen wagon, removing parts of it that I don't need, and ensuring that all the wires and connections are good and clean as this is going to...

I know it is, but man is it ever beat to death at this point lol

Who cares what hood is on it when it was faster then most peoples current junk in here over 10 years ago? BADASS Ride, one of my favourite Barracudas

THIS! I find it incredibly hypocritical how many people will say they are for free market capitalism, yet this kind of stuff bugs them. IF its an EXACT copy, and its patented, then yes, sue the hell out of them, its a damn ripoff! But we know that literally none of these Chinese copies are...