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If it fits my 1967 barracuda, I'd like it if its not sold yet.

I need this lol...let me know if one is still available

I've ordered a boot from Legendary interiors. The flaps do not come down to catch the snaps on my rear door panels. They suggest that factory panels didnt have those snaps. I have included a third pic showing my current boot, although worn and old, still fitting far better than the proposed...

I have a set of rusty ones that still worked when I replaced them 5 years ago. Been in shed since. If interested I can send you pics?

Made a shroud from fibreglass using a tee shirt over a mold technique..1 3/4" thick shroud and fan blades halfway...can't wait to get her runnin on a hot summer day to see if there is any fruit to my labour. Gonna have to wait for a bit up where I live tho...

Water pump is stock. However, the hoses worked so I simply reused them. Hmmm better rule that out and get new! I will ensure fan is halfway....just hope that makes enough of a difference. Gonna be hard as the fan blade is currently 1/2" away from top hose already!

History: Bought 67 barracuda, had motor rebuilt...very mild (almost factroy regarding HP) Purchased new Cold Case radiator (H x W : 16" X 22), 1 3/4" hoses, new thermostat 160*, 6 blade 18 1/2" fan. Water pump pulley is 7" Crank pulley is 7 1/2" No shroud Overheats on hot days when I am in...

I was wondering if adding a pcv would help. I can definitely try that in conjunction with a hose to air cleaner.

I am having a fair amount of oil leaking from my drivers side breather. I have a breather on each of my Mopar Performance valve covers on my 383 with a Holley sniper system. The engine has just been through its first summer and while it ran well, I have had a fair amount of oil leaking issues...

I don't think that was me no. I think 1.875 would be a little small. I believe I need 2.5.

Looking for exhaust tips for my Barracuda. Ideally stainless, 2.5" but let ,me know what you got.

Yet another Update: The bushings helped to take care of some slop in the linkage but still was not getting a proper disengaging of the clutch. Removed my drivers side rubber motor mount and replaced with a solid mount and this has completely solved any issues I was having. Previously the...

I have these but they're 5 x 4 and the centre caps are rusty...solid, but pitted

I love them. Very happy.

So I took a lot of the sloppiness out of my clutch by installing some bushings and grinding off the flanges from the z bar and drilling holes for codder pins instead. Made a big difference! Clutch works now. Did not get my .080" between the clutch and pressure plate but she works now!

Not sure if the fork is bent...I'm not sure if they're a littl curve in them from new or not. My Z bar is fairly straight now. The one bolt holds it pretty securely. It was not a problem of the bolt breaking off in the hole but rather the bell housing ear with the hole in it snapped and there...

You have any diagrams of what I need? I still Am not quite clear on what you mean.

two pics..one engaged and one disengaged

So, got everything all aligned properly and definitely have better throw, however, I only have .026 " between pressure plate and clutch as opposed to the .080 " that I need...

5.25" from floor ...pretty even with brake..

Swivel? Do you mean pivot for the z bar? Or...

Mine is 5.25" but having the pedal 'welded in' by previous owner (smh), I have decided to mock up a 6" with some flat stock steel I have and secure it to that existing arm. At least then I won't butcher anything and can see how much improvement it will be.

It definitely slides when clutch pedal is pressed, just not a lot. I don't think anything is damaged yet as all is brand new.

I do agree with all the comments made about getting everything "right" first prior to making any mods. The only thing that is not 100% is the z bar is not perfectly straight from frame pivot to bell pivot. I plan on sliding the frame pivot over to accomplish this but that would mean an oblong...

That looks almost exactly as to what I have. Lots of stuff I purchased from Brewers like the zbar bushings, clutch for return spring and the z bar itself I think is from Brewers as well. Not sure if the measurement of the clutch pedal torque rod is the same as mine but all looks the same...

After looking into it a bit more the clutch pedal is literally tach welded in place instead of a normal clip! Figures... Anyway, that makes me wonder if I deal with undoing that and lengthening the clutch pedal to gain the extra throw as described in that article posted above....or drilling a...

10.5 130 tooth flywheel No scatter shield. Cast...not aluminum