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Yeah I had charged it multiple times, and also let it trickle charge for a few days. It was only a year old so I didnt think there was a chance it was bad. Always a good reminder it is usually something simple.

@Demonracer I had just read a bunch about using the gm module on slant6.org so thats what I went with. @67Dart273 I found someone with a good battery and I swapped it out to test it. Turns out thats what it was. Ive got 10.6 to 11.0 volts when cranking now. At the module aswell. And I checked...

@RustyRatRod Yeah which may have not been the best thing to do, I get it. At the time of rebuilding I had wanted to switch to HEI ignition anyway and I had the stuff for it so I went ahead with it.

@67Dart273 Sorry for such a long gap. I got called out of town for work for the last few weeks. I am back working on my project again. So I measured the voltage at the posts of the battery and as it cranked over the voltage dropped from 12.5 to 9.5 right away, and then over the next few seconds...

@67Dart273 The module is definitely grounded. Notches were made in the aluminum plate for the nubs that stick off the back and it is screwed into "clean" sheet metal. I have also checked the screw points with the multimeter. As for the cranking voltage. Key in "run" voltage at the positive...

Hello everyone. I have been dealing with an ignition demon on my car and I have not been able to get spark. I have tried pretty much everything I can think of so now I am looking for some help. My car is a Canadian model 74 dart sport with a slant 6 and 904. I have rebuilt the engine and am now...

@Mattax I am also fairly certain this car did not use the 65A alternator. The old one I got the car with wasnt anyway. Unfortunately I am not able to use a mechanical pump in my application. I will be installing a holley sniper 2300 shortly that needs 58 psi, as well as adding a turbo shortly...

@Mattax The larger red wire that runs to the ignition relay has a blue tag and blue link. Thanks for the info on the programs. I have used MSPaint a lot but I havent heard of the other ones. I will have to look them up.

@Mattax Also is there a program you are using for these wiring diagrams? Seems like a useful tool

@Mattax To address some of your questions. I know the car was a canadian build, and yes it does have a rear window defroster which could be that mystery wire. The 18ga yellow wire runs to a switch and relay which wasnt stock, looks to be for an aftermarket something or other. I was going to use...

Thank you @67Dart273 and @Mattax. Those diagrams are making a lot more sense with your explanations. I had the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual for the car but when looking at those I always find it confusing with the diagrams being so busy. As Mattax mentioned the car is a 74 Dart Sport with...

Hello members, I am having some trouble getting some wiring sorted out on the car, mainly where the gauge cluster gets power from and where my alternator lead plugs in. There is a harness connection at the firewall with a red wire and 2 black wires, heavier gauge, shown below. The red wire...

It may bind up, I do agree. I set up the bar before I changed out my rear leaf bushings and it went from lots of lateral movement to nothing. Then when I swapped the bushing, in my kit I noticed the hangers were different. Turns out the old owner had extended the shackles. So with new shackles...

Yeah I regret taping it but I think I can use a fine steel wool pad and soften the edges a bit. I used a soft tape edge, as in I flipped the tape back on itself so that it wasn't a hard edge but now I see that doesn't help much. Oh well

While I was working on the 2 patches on the quarters, I took out the dash aswell. Forgot to grab some process pictures but it has been cleaned up, rust converted, patched where needed, and painted again. The dash pad I buffed with some leather conditioner and scrub bad, then polished. Came out...

I had the colour matched up as close as I could by eye. The paint chip I had matched almost exactly in the sun. I smoothed out the patches, primed them, and put it down. Unfortunately there was more of a difference once it was on the car. I think if I buff out the edges it may make a bit of a...

Today I formed up some patch panels for the quarters and got those welded in and did some light bondo work to cover up the bends. Still need to sand it down and try and find a color match to paint just the quarters, as I am not planning on painting the whole car.

More work on the car over the past while. At least self isolation can be good for something. The backside of the underbody was prepped, primed, and painted. As well as my rear diff, brackets, and fuel tank. I also got everything installed again and sitting back on its own tires. She is a roller...

Completed some more work on my weird dana 44 rear end. I wanted to go to disc brakes on the back and they unfortunately don't make kits for this one. The ssbc big bearing ford 9" was close and I had planned to use that but with them out of business I had to get creative. I ordered a set of...

I know this is an old thread but came across it when doing some research. If anyone is looking for the header flange I found a place that sells them. Mopar Slant 6 170-225 Exhaust Flange - Hells Gate Hot Rods

Mainly, yes, they are just used in coil over suspensions. With leaf springs there still can be a decent amount of lateral travel from rubber bushings and the shackles. My thought was I had this panhard kit already and thought I would put it to some use on my project. Being that it is adjustable...

Thanks for the info. I have visited the site but havent read that on there, ill have to look again.

I started getting my weird dana 44 rear end mocked up and in place. I am adding in a panhard bar to the back to help with lateral movement. I think I got it in a decent spot for clearance all around when the suspension compresses. I wish it could have been a bit longer but it seems like it will...

I went with the factory spec on mine.

Reinstalled the front suspension with new Energy Suspension bushings and proforged/moog tie rod ends and ball joints. Finally plopped the engine and trans back into their place. Next up is getting the rotors on and letting this thing back on its own weight to set up suspension and rear end.

a904 was stripped down and rebuilt

Engine bay and front half of underbody primed, painted, and cleared.

While the parts were drying, I stripped the engine bay and have started some rust repair on the car and engine bay prep for paint. I am hoping to have the suspension, steering, engine, and trans in the car soon to line up my rear end and complete the welding on that.

Near the end of the year I didn't get much time to work on the car, work and a holiday, but I have some time again and am back at it. I started with rebuilding the steering box and getting all the suspension and steering parts rebuilt, prepped, and ready for paint. I also welded on a stiffing...

I recently just did the exact same process as you and used the same Proforged part as replacement. I got the same result with the small bulge at the bottom, but I would agree it shouldn't be an issue at all.