Search results for query: fuel return line

72 Duster Originally a slant 6 car Now: 1971 360 .030 over with KB hyper pistons and aftermarket I beam rods balanced bottom end with stock cast crank. Iron heads with custom valves and port work that flow 240 cfm@500 Solid flat tappet cam with crane 1.5 gold rockers. Cam lift is .566/.586...

I am working on my 1975 slant six dart, removing my old Holley 1945 and installing a "new" Carter 4956 BBS carb. My car has the original Evap canister with 3 connections and I know I need to install a new canister to avoid charcoal debris in the new carb. There are lots of threads about changing...

Just running 87 octane and the injectors are 210lbs. Main feed is 10an and return is 8an line, I can set the second one to come on at a higher rpm.

i run an inline pump ,an added fuel line to the front , a return line back into the orig. style fuel pick up with the sock cut off keep it below the fuel level to avoid airation...fast 2.0 fuel inj.

Consider one from an '88ish Jeep Cherokee. 20 gallons, driver's side fill. In-tank electric fuel pump, 70-90 psi (depending on manufacturer), 50ish gph, 3/8 line with a return fitting. The sender's ohm readings are similar to stock Mopar, but get this, they are reversed. So your gauge will read...

Matt what fuel are you running and what size injectors? If you suspect the 2x pumps are too much for the FPR can you disable one of the pumps and test in low boost? A single 400lph should be enough for some low end testing. Maybe it’s not enough return line for that much fuel volume?

It's probably just evaporation. Trying a check valve wouldn't hurt. We have had many discussions here about the subject and the only fix people rave about is the electric charge pump. Those that have tried the check valve don't say much about it after it's installed. Here's a link to the pump...

Great info, thanks. According to the Session 188 material, Chrysler started mounting fuel filters at either vertical or 45* positions specifically for heat issues. I'm not totally vertical, but certainly a long way from horizontal, but I can change that. I was also studying the pics that...

Keep any wire running to the EFI - aside from distributor wires which may give you zero choice in the matter - at least 2-3" away from all spark plug wires. Just make sure the wire is large enough for its intended current. For a trunk to engine compartment run, you may want to subtract 2 to 4...

Gulp glad you got it home

Yes it has. And the error of what the crossover does is still being spread like the clap in a high school locker room. I also didn't agree with the line up to the front unless it is the only feed. Having opposing feeds in the same gallery can stop flow at some point in the pipe. Hydraulics...

Yes, it is a vent line that went to the OEM canister in the engine bay...but at the tank it runs THRU a separator (inside the tank), so it can NOT be used as a return fuel line?

Beginning in 1963 Chrysler mounted fuel filters so the outlet would let the vapor out, minimizing vapor lock. Carburetion and Performance Diagnosis (Session 188) from the Master Technician's Service Conference 1970 basically same position shown in the Dodge Service Manual Then to address...

It's up to you. If you want to point at the fuel line and tell people it's 3/8", go ahead and upsize it. For the purpose you said you plan to use the car, a stock fuel system with mechanical pump should be fine. You'll need the larger fuel capacity at higher RPM. Where I live, if you spend...

Just for grins, bypass the old metal line and just run a rubber line from the tank to the pump temporarily. compressed air might have just crammed junk further down the metal line and not cleared it out. Personally, I'd stick an electric pump on a gas can closer to the engine and see what happens.

After driving all over town to find parts, I shove an air compressor in the fuel and return line by the pump and routed a hose on the other end into a glass bottle. Flow was great no debris or gunk came out. I replaced the fuel sender screen after cutting it open to add a spring in order to...

I have a guy here with a 1972 Duster slant 6 .It has the same problem. Also a 67 Barracuda same problem. It is the fuel boiling after the car is shut down. It bubbles past the needle and seat and floods the engine. On the slant 6 we installed a return style filter from a 86 dodge pickup and...

I was going to mount the regulator near the gas tank for that reason but they recommend having it as close to the carb as possible. So I ran the return line and mounted a gauge at the regulator to have the ability to keep an eye on the pressure and adjust it easily. It does require a little more...

I guess this could have gone under fuel, but it seemed more appropriate here. This is my experience with a Spectra Premium Classic fuel sending unit. The car is a 1970 Dart. After hearing lots of tales of woe regarding replacement sending units, I looked at the latest posts and on the basis...

Oh interesting, you removed the panel on the bottom side of the floor pan? That’s a good idea, I was going to come straight off the pump through that area but I don’t think a standard bulkhead will be long enough. I’d love to do a rear 4 link but this project is getting crazy enough as it is...

This is going to depend on a number of things. Do you plan on running the charcoal cannister from the '96? Does the '96 use a fuel return line or is it a returnless system? (Mopar used both over the course of the Magnum's life- I don't remember offhand which was being used in '96) Does your Dart...

I would appreciate some pictures. Mine is an ex drag car and when I tore it down 7 years ago I can't remember if it had a return line or not. I put a new sending unit in and it has the tube for the return line so I want to use it along with the 3 nipple fuel filter to help reduce the potential...

has anyone tried to add an intake fuel pump to the stock a body sender? questions if you did: 1) what did you use to put the wiring thru the sender plate? 2) did you use a 5/16 or 3/8 sending unit? 3) where did you put the return line if you had that kind of system. tia. rick w.

A few things that I have done to help with the hot restarts and E10: I also added the return line to mine but with an electric fuel pump too. I added a priming button to fill the bowls before each start. I added a mini starter (Powermaster XS Torque series) to help get the motor turned over...

On the car above we ran 1971 fuel lines and used the vapor line for the return. The sending unit had two lines for a return

STop telliing people this WITHOUT explaining. YOU CAN NOT USE that line UNLESS you do something "else" about fuel vent. THAT 1/4" LINE IS THE FUEL TANK VENT!!! If you want to use that existing 1/4" line you have a couple of choices 1...Look the 69/ earlier, simple, vent line into...

If you want it, it will require a rebuild. I'd say it's fine for the track but I'd recommend its use on the street only if you have a return line. While it worked, it had no problem maintaining 6 psi at the carb either on the street or at the track but I believe it overheated with with...

The vent line starts at the top of the filler tube as you've shown and exits the trunk pan near the gas tank and that end is open. I see you have a new sender, it might have an extra nipple for fuel return. Maybe the P.O. connected your vent line to the sender there? Just guessing at this point now.

He said vapor return, not fuel return. Vapor return cannot cause a drop in fuel pressure. All it does is vent the float bowl. Now a solid fuel return is a different story. But properly set up using the fuel pressure regulator as the return orifice, the pressure won't drop, as long as there's...

WHAT YEAR MAKE MODEL is the car. Tank (non) venting can aggravate this. This SEEMS to be a combination of "new style" gasohol which boils and evaps more easily, heat, so, vapor lock and fuel boiling off. There has been numerous "cures." Make sure your line is tight, no leaks...