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Which curve and why?

You may want to specify what bearing retainer diameter your transmission has, since there are several variations on bellhousings.

My dad retired from local 513, small world.

Hello, I'm looking for the sway bar frame mounting brackets for a 1970 Dart Swinger. I am located in Spokane Wa. and would consider buying a complete sway bar with brackets if you are not wanting to separate them. Stock 1970 OEM Only Please / Thank you.

Thinking of painting hood matte black....any suggestions on a good paint to use Thanks

Possibly, but most likely not. Just hook it up and go. If you do have to futz with the idle speed or mixture, it will be very minor.

Baffles aren't there to keep it from smoking. What you need is a COMPLETE PCV system. See the diagram below. You need a SEALED breather with a hose nipple for a hose that connects to the air cleaner. The PCV valve needs to be in the opposite valve cover from the breather.

Great tip..! Thanks again..!!

Thank you. Yes I ordered those parts from Brewers good for the larger bell housing. That is what I am looking to do. Upgrade to the larger later bellhousing. I have most all the parts for that already, Except the bellhosuing.

I hope to wire and plumbing the Charger. Need some time on the car to haul it to Utah in 2026.

I understand that. I am ok with spaces that slide over the wheel studs, but not bolt on ones that have their own wheel studs. To each there own, but I don't want to run them. That's why I went to an F-Body 8.25. It allowed me to use cheap Mustang wheels without spacers, and the cost was...

The velocity through the curtain area has a major effect on power potential and is also one of the factors used to determine the cam requirements

The one they sent me had less metal than the picture in the posts above... If you have to use the Hughes extension kit, get a regular cam keyway and grind it down if needed so it fits the full slot in the timing chain gear and the nose extension... Don't take any chances....

This is the correct one for your car but it is the smaller one.

If I was to do a test like that, I think fully porting the head except the pinch then open the pinch in stages to see it's effect, it's effect probably be on peak power, rpm and over rev rpm. Seems to me a lot of larger displacement sb don't have decent over rev rpm, lot seem to shut down after...

Also note the direction of the bolts that hold the mount to the engine... Install the bolts so the head of the bolt is on the front of the mount ears for all the bolts and the shaft of the bolts face rearward... Then you can slide the motor mount on from the rear and install the nuts all in...

It will be for sale after I finish my Dakota.

I don’t see any issues using a new PST box. You may not need a new pitman arm, it depends on if your power steering box is 73+ or not. If it’s ‘73+ then it should be the large sector, which would mean you’d need a new pitman arm for your small sector manual box. If your power steering box is ‘72...

How about this set up? breather on passenger side cover, filler cap on front driver side cover, PCV valve on rear driver side cover connected to carb. Forgive my ignorance here since this is all a new learning experience for me but do I have to adjust the carb in anyway if I connect the PCV...

He put together a real nice string of runs for that win!! :thumbsup:

I’ll have to look for mine. I don’t remember the key being too short.

I’m not sure what the Bloomer brothers would say if you asked them that, but I would say air flow is not at the top of the list of important stuff I look at. I don’t think airflow is in the top 5 things I worry about. Shape, shape, shape.

If someone provides the castings I’d do the test.

I got another exhaust block off plate made. I don't know what I did with my other one. Senility I guess, but I made another one. Probably all a 90s model Pontiac Grand Prix fender is good for. Also gettin the hardware cleaned and painted.

Not the style, the work itself. The pin striping around the cut out looks terrible and crowds the pin striping at the front of the hood.

I’m not suggesting you make the bowls a given number, but steeper than 45 degree seats usually want the bowls over 90%. I’m not sure how you do your seats/valve job but I start with a cutter that sets the bowl at 91ish%. I’ll hold my comments a bit longer but your flow numbers gave away that...

I think The Professor covered it nicely. You might have the right z bar already I can't remember for sure.

I don't see a PCV valve... could be your problem.

When someone would call and say, “I’m looking for a max effort set of heads”, I’d tell them…….”I’m not your guy”.

Are you sure it's not the sending unit gasket or filler tube seal? Aftermarket sending unit lock rings are notorious for being incorrect (too thin and flimsy) and leaking all over the place.